In June 2023, the European Union (EU) Commission made a significant move in the skincare industry by informing the World Trade Organisation (WTO) of a draft Regulation intended to modify ingredient restrictions on EU skin care ingredients, including some that are commonly used in cosmetics
The adoption of this regulation is expected in the fourth quarter of 2023. This article will shed light on the impending changes and their implications for beauty brands and consumers. einecs 248 502 0
One of the key components of this draft regulation focuses on Retinol and other Vitamin A derivatives, including Retinyl Acetate and Retinyl Palmitate. Contrary to rumors of an outright ban, the regulation primarily proposes usage restrictions rather than a complete prohibition. The restrictions will vary depending on the type of product, with body lotions allowed to contain 0.05% Retinol Equivalent (RE), while other leave-on and rinse-off products can contain up to 0.3% RE. Additionally, products containing these ingredients must include the following mandatory label:
“Contains Vitamin A-related compounds, which contribute to your daily intake of Vitamin A.”
This regulation aims to address the potential health risks associated with excessive exposure to Vitamin A through cosmetic products.
Kojic Acid, a popular skin-lightening agent, and Genistein and Daidzein, used as skin conditioners and antioxidants, will have certain restrictions imposed. However, they will not be completely prohibited. The draft regulation sets specific limits on these ingredients, allowing Genistein to be used in cosmetic products up to 0.007% and Daidzein up to 0.02%. Kojic Acid will be permitted in face and hand products at a concentration of up to 1%, but it will not be included in other products.
The draft regulation takes a cautious approach towards 4-Mthylbenzylidene Camphor, a commonly used UV filter in cosmetic products. It emphasises that this substance should no longer be authorised for use in cosmetic products due to potential health risks. As a result, it will be completely prohibited in cosmetic products and included in Annex II of the Regulation.
The draft Regulation imposes limitations on the usage of Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin, which are commonly employed as agents for skin lightening and conditioning. The European Commission intends to distinguish between facial and body products, permitting the inclusion of Arbutin in face creams at concentrations of up to 7%, Alpha-Arbutin at concentrations of up to 2% in face creams, and 0.5% in body lotions. In order to minimise health risks, the levels of Hydroquinone in formulations containing Alpha-Arbutin should be kept as low as possible and should not exceed trace amounts that are unavoidable.
The use of Triclosan and Triclocarban as preservatives in cosmetic products has been carefully evaluated by the draft regulation. In order to ensure consumer safety, new restrictions have been imposed on these substances. Triclocarban will be permitted in all cosmetic products, except mouthwash, at concentrations up to 0.2%. Similarly, Triclosan will have a limit of 0.3% in specific products, including toothpaste, hand soaps, body soaps/shower gels, deodorants (non-spray), face powders, blemish concealers, and nail products for cleaning fingernails and toenails. However, any other uses of Triclosan will be prohibited.
For beauty brands, the upcoming EU regulation will bring significant changes to the skin care industry, impacting the use of various key ingredients. It's crucial for you to take a proactive approach in assessing your product formulations to ensure compliance with the new restrictions. By acting early, you not only demonstrate a commitment to safety but also ensure that you'll be prepared to meet the deadlines specified in the Regulation (see below).
As consumers, this Regulation represents a positive step towards enhanced safety and transparency in skin care products. With stricter limitations on certain ingredients, it's important to stay informed about the products you use and make choices that align with your preferences and promote skin health.
In this ever-changing world of beauty, it's crucial for the industry to adapt, prioritise consumer safety, and push the boundaries of skin care innovation to meet regulations and exceed customer expectations. Need help finding alternative ingredients for your formulations? Look no further than Covalo.com! With a database of over 80k ingredients, you'll find the perfect ingredient for your products with just a few clicks.
Transition periods will be granted to allow the industry to adapt to the new requirements:
2. For Genistein, Daidzein, Kojic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin and Arbutin:
3. For Retinol, Retinyl Acetate and Retinyl Palmitate:
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