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By Ayn-Monique Klahre and Alex Arpaia Commercial Outdoor Restaurant Furniture
To find out what makes a good dining table, we interviewed a master furniture restorer, an interior designer, and four more industry experts, and we looked at hundreds of tables online and in person.
Our guide will help you determine the best size, shape, and style of table for your space, as well as what a table’s material and construction can tell you about its longevity.
Our 7 picks include small tables for two to four people, apartment-friendly drop-leaf tables, and dining-room-worthy models made to seat up to 10.
Ayn-Monique Klahre has covered home furnishings for more than 10 years as a lifestyle editor for magazines including Good Housekeeping, Woman’s Day, and InStyle. In that time, she has written many home-goods shopping articles and interviewed dozens of interior designers, product testers, and other industry experts. Her goal is always to recommend the best values in furniture that people can afford.
For this guide, Ayn-Monique read dozens of articles, combed customer reviews, and interviewed furniture experts and interior designers, including Christophe Pourny, a master furniture restorer and author of The Furniture Bible: Everything You Need to Know to Identify, Restore & Care for Furniture; Lucy Harris, an interior designer and principal at Lucy Harris Studio; Jackie Hirschhaut, vice president of public relations and marketing for the American Home Furnishings Alliance; Max Dyer, a furniture-industry veteran and current vice president of casegoods (a category of hard furniture, such as tables, cabinets, and chairs) for La-Z-Boy; Thomas Russell, senior editor at industry newsletter Furniture Today; and Meredith Mahoney, founder and design director of Birch Lane.
Because choosing a dining table is so specific to the amount of space you have, your plans for using the table, and your taste, we’re recommending a few tables in the most common categories. We didn’t do side-by-side testing for this guide, but we did sit at all of these tables in stores, showrooms, or our offices. Based on our research, we think these tables will hold up well over time and are some of the best you can find for under $1,000.
These tables comfortably seat two to four people, maybe six if you’re good friends. They have a small footprint, so they’ll work in a tiny dining space or as a kitchen table.
This solid-oak table should resist dings and scratches better than softer-wood tables, and the understated mid-century styling will complement a range of interiors.
Why it’s great: The Seno Round Dining Table is one of the few hardwood tables that we found for under $700. Because it’s oak, we think the Seno will look nicer for longer than comparable tables made of soft woods or wood veneer. Its thin, splayed legs feel on-trend and mid-century but not too exaggerated. Other mid-century-style tables we looked at were quite bulky, out of our price range, or made of wood veneer. The Seno was easy to assemble; it arrived flat, and we needed only to screw the legs in one by one, without any tools. This table also comes in walnut.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: We don’t yet know how this table will wear over the long run, but we’ll keep an eye on our Seno as we continue to long-term test it. Owner reviews on Article’s site are positive overall, awarding this table 4.8 stars (out of five) across 53 reviews at this writing, but many of the two- and three-star reviews report that the top scratches easily. We still feel comfortable recommending the Seno, though, based on the durability of hardwood and because we’ve seen that Houzz readers are generally happy with the ship time and customer service for Article furniture. We also recommend the company’s Ceni sofa.
Why it’s great: This is one of the cheapest, best-reviewed finished solid-wood tables we could find (IKEA does have cheaper wood tables, but they are unfinished). The soft pine wood will dent and scratch more easily than hardwoods, but it will be able to tolerate stripping and refinishing (unlike a wood veneer). Many of the very inexpensive tables we saw were made of metal or plastic and had more modern styling, so they looked like cheap restaurant tables. This model’s traditional styling and medium-neutral stain give it a more quality, expensive look. At the store, we found this table small but sturdy, easy enough to move around for apartment living. If you upgrade to a larger space, you could use it as a desk later. Plus, the package includes the chairs.
Dimensions: 46½ by 29⅛ by 29⅛ inches (LWH) Materials: pine
This is the best solid-wood table we’ve found (that also comes with Prime shipping) for around $250. It’s sturdy and reasonably durable. Modern chairs would help tone down the country look.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: Although we had an easy time assembling this table and it arrived in pristine condition, some Amazon reviewers complain that the tabletop scratches easily. We’ll keep an eye on how the top on our table wears as we continue testing it. Other reviews say that the Damen is a tight fit for more than two people; we easily sat four people at this table, although six may be a squeeze. Note that unlike with the IKEA Jokkmokk table, this model’s price does not include any chairs.
Dimensions: 47½ by 29½ by 29½ inches (LWH) Materials: hardwood
If you have a dedicated dining space, fill it with a great-looking table. These large-scale tables (ranging from 54 to 92 inches long) seat six to eight comfortably, and you can seat more if you’re willing to squeeze.
The assembly of the table was dead simple. Though it is easier with two people, one person could manage if need be. You simply twist the legs into each dedicated spot while the table is upside down, and then flip it over, no tools needed. To attach the leaves, you unscrew the knobs beneath the table to release the extension rods, and then place the leaves on top, making sure to align with the wooden notch beneath the table.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: The grain on the two leaves do not match the grain on the large table (one is vertical whereas the other is horizontal). While this is purely an aesthetic thing, we do wish it were a detail that could be remedied in the future. You’ll also need to find a place to store the extension leaves when not in use (each leaf measures 19.5 inches by 37.5 inches).
Dimensions: 71-110 by 37½ by 29 inches (LWH) Materials: white oak or black walnut (solid wood)
At just over 92 inches, this sturdy table is a good option for a large dining area. It’s cheaper than similar-size models and has cleaner lines than most rustic farmhouse tables.
Why it’s great: In true IKEA fashion, the Möckelby gives you a lot of table for your buck. It’s the biggest, best-looking table we could find under $1,000. With a lighter, distressed finish and picnic-table-style construction, this table has a casual, rustic look, but because it has clean lines and slightly splayed legs, it’s more versatile style-wise than other farmhouse-inspired tables. We found the Möckelby very comfortable due to a shallow apron and widely placed legs, and the center bar was a surprisingly good footrest. This table is not expensive considering that it is the largest one in this group, and it felt hefty and solid in the store. Although this model is a veneer table, we haven’t read any customer complaints about it chipping.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: The floor model we looked at was in good shape, but we worried that the seam down the middle of the table could be a crumb catcher. Even though the pros we interviewed said they recommended against wood veneers mounted over particleboard because such designs are less durable over time, this model gives you a lot of table space, and the buyer reviews we saw were very positive. IKEA doesn’t offer a warranty, however, and given the high cost of shipping, you may be better off buying your table in the store if you can.
Dimensions: 92½ by 39⅜ by 29⅛ inches (LWH) Materials: oak veneer
Less expensive and more modern-looking than similar-size glass tables, the Silverado is a good option if you want a large table that will bring an airy feel to a room.
May be out of stock
Flaws but not dealbreakers: The surface of the floor model we saw was quite scratched. Use placemats with this table and avoid chairs with arms, which can chip the sides. And be aware that although glass cleans easily, it will show any spill or fingerprint. CB2 offers no warranty and a limited return policy.
Dimensions: 80 by 36 by 29¼ inches (LWH) Materials: glass, with chrome or brass legs
Why it’s great: Unlike some other round folding tables we looked at, the Jozy Round Weathered Gray Wood Drop Leaf Dining Table looks good both open and closed. It’s less expensive than similar-size wood tables we saw (it’s made of solid acacia). The floor model felt sturdy when fully expanded. It has a good leg-to-top ratio, and the style makes it look like an antique versus a new purchase. With a diameter of 36 inches when open, this table straddles the middle ground between a classic 30-inch-diameter bistro-style table and a standard round (42-plus inches), and it folds down to 18 inches wide (a good size for a side table). With this table fully expanded, two would be comfortable and four would be very cozy.
Flaws but not dealbreakers: The floor model we saw was a little nicked but not as badly as some of the pine tables we saw at IKEA, and this table could tolerate refinishing because it’s solid wood. If you’re looking for a really small round table, this isn’t it; the table looks bigger in person than it does online, more like a café table than a side table.
The best dining table for you will be the one that works for your budget, offers solid construction, fits your space, and has a style you’ll love for years. Even if you’re not thinking forever at this point, you can expect to have a table for at least five to 10 years. “Five years is not a long time,” said Pourny. “If it’s your first table, you may use it somewhere else after a few years, so you want it to be simple and sturdy and a style you’ll like for a while.” So a small, well-made table might find a place in your home for years to come.
Here are the factors you should consider before buying a table for your home.
The number-one rule: Your dining table has to fit in your dining area. But a dining table is a deceptively large piece of furniture, and you need to account for space around it, too.
To visualize how a bigger piece of furniture will look in your room, take the time to block out the length and width on the floor (such as with painter’s tape), as well as the height of the table.
“In addition to the footprint of the table, you’ll want 3 feet of breathing room on all sides—and more is better!—to comfortably sit in a chair and move around the space,” said Harris. So whether your dining area is part of a multiuse space (such as a great room that you’re dividing into living and dining areas) or you have a separate dining room, start by measuring the length and width of the space you can dedicate to the dining table. Then subtract about 6 feet from those two measurements to get a target dining table length and width.
Next, think about how you’re going to use the table and how many people will typically sit at the table. “Figure that each place at the table needs 22 to 24 inches of table space and that larger scale chairs will require more,” said Dyer. These are the general dimensions you can expect:
As a longtime apartment dweller, guide co-author Ayn-Monique Klahre has found that the “visual weight” of a piece of furniture can really influence how big it feels in a room. It may technically fit, but it’ll seem huge if it’s a dark or bulky piece or if it’s too close to other furniture. To visualize how a bigger piece of furniture will look in your room, take the time to block out the length and width on the floor (such as with painter’s tape), as well as the height of the table. Try standing on the tape corners with a tape measure and filling in that space with similar-size furniture (such as a couple of chairs), and then taking a step back to see how it might feel. It also helps to ask a friend to stand there with the tape measure while you take a look. If the table you have in mind wouldn’t have a lot of room to breathe because of other furniture nearby, consider a different table with a thinner frame or lighter-colored materials.
If you’re tight on space, consider options such as leaves that allow the table to expand. “These let you customize the table for different entertainment needs and party sizes,” said Mahoney. The one thing Pourny warned against in this regard was too many mechanisms or leaves that were attached or hidden within the table (versus standalone leaves). “If you buy things that are too complicated, it’s just more opportunity for something to fail,” he told us. The sturdiest expansion tables are those where the leaves are solid, separate units that you place on the base once you’ve opened the table (versus a flip-up or butterfly style). If you plan to use your table very differently on weeknights versus weekends, expansion tables can be a great option.
And don’t forget about considerations for moving your dining table into your home in the first place. Scope out any area the table will have to travel through, including doorways, hallways, and hard turns into a room that will limit your maneuverability. “Measure everything first, and treat the delivery team who brings your furniture well!” said Dyer.
“The shape of the room gets first say, since some tables simply do not work in certain rooms,” Dyer told us. Tabletops come in two main shape families, square/rectangular or round/oval. Ideally, you want your table to fill your space proportionately, so if you have a rectangular room, try a rectangular or oval table; if your available space is more square, a square or round table will look better.
Square or rectangular tables are the most common, so you’ll find the most options in that category in terms of styles, sizes, and extensions. But a round or oval table can give you a little more space to move around because it cuts off the corners but still offers a good surface area. “For tighter rectangular spaces, the oval might be the best option,” said Dyer. Harris added, “Round or oval tables can be great for parties and conversation because there’s no head of the table, too.” As for squeezing people in, you’re limited only by the perimeter of the table—but you can lose a little space for serving pieces once you have all your place settings at a round or oval table.
The base—usually legs, a pedestal, or a trestle—can have an effect on how many people you can fit at the table. “You just want to be sure the leg space isn’t being invaded by the supports,” said Hirschhaut. When you see a table in person, sit at it to see if your legs hit the table’s legs; also verify if you have enough space for your knees when you scoot in all the way, and if you can cross your legs underneath the table. The apron—the frame that holds the tabletop up—can cut down on your room to maneuver.
If you want to be more flexible in adding dinner guests, pay attention to the leg width and where the legs are placed. “In general, a table with thinner legs, or where the legs are at the corners, will make it easier to squeeze an extra chair in,” said Harris. And as Dyer noted, be aware: “A leg table is generally limited to how long it can be extended without bowing in the middle.” A very large-scale table might have two pedestals or a trestle base to support it, but a four-leg table that extends really far out could get unstable.
With a pedestal or trestle table, you have more flexibility to add more people to the table. “A center base is the best option to squeeze people in,” said Harris. Pourny told us he was wary of larger round pedestal-style tables because they could be a little less sturdy than a four-leg table. “You have to be able to lean on it and dine on it every day without it tipping over,” he said.
Trestle tables can give you flexibility along the sides of the table but can limit the space at the ends of the table. Dyer said, “The challenge with the trestle table is that there can be spots along the table where a chair is straddling the base.” This situation can be less comfortable and make pushing in chairs impossible. But Pourny told us he liked this style because it’s sturdy and rooted in antique furniture. To make sure you have space for your knees, look closely at how much space a trestle design has between the edge of the table and where the trestle supports are attached.
This is the fun part! You can find thousands of options, so first you should narrow your selections. “Do you want formal elegance or casual comfort? Do you envision a cozy room or a grand one?” said Hirschhaut. If you’re starting from scratch, browse through sites and make a Pinterest board to see what you’re attracted to.
That said, because a dining table is a big investment, your best bet is to find something you’re going to like for a while. Pourny advised against choosing anything too trendy. “If you get something too funky, with too many weird details, one day you may wake up and wonder what you were thinking,” he said. “Keep it simple and sturdy.”
He also said that in general he found that lighter woods (such as white oak or bleached woods), raw or natural finishes, and weathered materials done in cleaner lines tended to stand the test of time. Mid-century-style furniture has become more popular in the past 10 to 15 years, and that popularity continues to grow.
Solid wood is a classic material because it is durable and easy to repair. Pine, acacia, mango, and teak are less expensive woods that are becoming more popular now. Different woods have different hardnesses—pine is much softer than acacia, for example, which in turn is softer than walnut. “Solid wood is the most popular, though it’s often the most expensive,” said Hirschhaut. Manufacturers have been working to get the price of solid wood down—IKEA, for one, has an unfinished solid-pine table for around $80—but a larger-scale table from a different retailer can cost $1,000 or more.
“If it’s good wood, in 10 years you can strip it and you’ll still have something to work with.” —Christophe Pourny
“There’s been a move away from dark stains and back toward very natural materials and wood species that people recognize,” said Dyer. Pre-distressed pieces with rustic finishes can wear a bit better under abuse from little kids.
Wood expands and contracts with heat and humidity and can show scratches and wear, but it’s fairly easy to repair. “If it’s good wood, in 10 years you can strip it and you’ll still have something to work with,” said Pourny. Heat and moisture can damage the finish, so “be prepared to protect [the] tabletop with pads, cloths, mats or trivets,” added Hirschhaut.
Wood veneer is often a more economical alternative to solid wood. To create wood veneer, a manufacturer glues a very thin layer of solid wood (or material printed to look like wood) to a plywood or other wood core. Depending on the maker and the materials, wood-veneer pieces can be just as sturdy as solid wood—or quite flimsy. “Generally, veneer is used to achieve one of two objectives: a decorative patterned top (for better goods) or to appear as solid wood (to reduce costs by using a cheaper substrate beneath it),” said Dyer. “A well-made veneer will be a little thicker (1/36″ or greater) and will use multilayer, cross-banded plywood as the core that it is glued to.”
Harris told us that she found good wood veneer to be just as stable as solid wood. To identify good veneer, look for tables with clearly labeled core interiors, such as kiln-dried hardwood. “A lower quality veneer, however, will be very thin, poorly printed, and will be applied to multi-density fiberboard (MDF) or particle board,” said Dyer. Harris agreed that a veneer added to composite wood, which is made from fiberboard or other reconstituted wood-pulp-based materials, is less durable and susceptible to delaminating (in which the veneer detaches from the base). “To avoid these lower-quality products, avoid cores made from MDF or particleboard and look out for phrases like ‘all wood,’ which can refer to anything derived from wood—like newspaper—or ‘engineered wood,’ which can mean everything from wood composites to synthetic resins,” said Dyer. You can expect to pay under $500 for a less expensive veneer piece, but the higher-end ones go into the thousands.
Stone and stone-look Stone tabletops can include marble, quartz composite, or cast stone (like cement). “There are both natural and man-made options in the stone category, but it is not a big category in dining tables,” Dyer told us. Although stone is durable, it can be porous and can absorb stains easily. “Depending on how it’s made, it can chip or crack,” said Hirschhaut—and once that happens, it can be tough or impossible to repair. Such tabletops can also be quite heavy. The price of stone can really vary, too: Cement-topped pieces can be under $500, but marble-topped ones often run into the thousands.
Metal Metal, including stainless steel, brass, zinc, and lacquered or painted versions of those, sees use more frequently for table bases than for tabletops. “Metal is durable and not easily damaged,” Hirschhaut told us. But because it has a higher shine, it shows every fingerprint and can require special cleaning tools, making it a higher-maintenance option. And Harris has found that painted metals can be hard to repair: “If you nick a high-gloss or lacquered table, it’s hard to touch it up. I’ve had to try to match nail polish to finishes to try to repair them.” Tables using metal can be less expensive than wood tables, though finding an all-metal dining table beyond utility tables is rare.
At a store, you can look underneath the floor sample: Wood joined directly with wood is very strong, whereas too many attachments and hooks can weaken the construction. In general, the simpler, the better. “Look at the connection points where the legs meet the tabletops and at the corners—if the pieces are starting to separate, you see gaps at the corners, or it’s wobbly when you move it, it’s not well constructed,” cautioned Harris. “A good table should have some heft to it; you don’t want the legs to be wobbly,” said Russell. And beware of really inexpensive tables: They could be held together with just staples and glue, which isn’t very sturdy.
On the surface, look for tables with a “smooth top,” suggested Mahoney, and avoid those with deep grooves or “crumb catchers” (Russell’s phrase) in between boards or in a distressed finish that might make them harder to clean. That includes spaces where you might separate the table to expand it. In general, the more moving parts—whether they’re intersections joined with screws or expansion mechanisms for leaves—the more opportunities for the table to malfunction. “The best leaves are the ones where you pull out the table and set the leaves right on it,” said Pourny. “Too many mechanisms—push this, spring that—can get tricky.”
To decide which dining tables to recommend, we scoured the websites of furniture retailers including Amazon, Arhaus, Article, Ashley Furniture HomeStore, Birch Lane, Blu Dot, CB2, Cost Plus World Market, Crate and Barrel, Design Within Reach, Ethan Allen, IKEA, JCPenney, Joybird, Macy’s, Pier 1, Pottery Barn, Raymour & Flanigan, Restoration Hardware, Room & Board, Target, Wayfair, West Elm, and Z Gallerie. We looked for their best sellers and their highest-rated dining tables (which are not always the same thing).
We analyzed each table based on the following criteria:
For those tables that we tested in our offices, we also were able to assess the delivery and assembly process.
This article was edited by Daniela Gorny.
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Max Dyer, vice president of casegoods, La-Z-Boy, email interview, April 23, 2017
Lucy Harris, interior designer and principal at Lucy Harris Studio, interview, April 14, 2017
Jackie Hirschhaut, vice president of public relations and marketing for the American Home Furnishings Alliance, email interview, April 11, 2017
Thomas Russell, senior editor at Furniture Today, interview, May 10, 2017
Meredith Mahoney, founder and design director of Birch Lane, email interview, May 10, 2017