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When it comes to outerwear, a waxed canvas jacket is among the toughest of the genre. It's the kind of jacket you expect to see on a lumberjack performing his various lumber-duties, while gorp'd-out hikers stride past in their triple-layer Gore-Tex anoraks. Not only are waxed jackets built like tanks, ready and raring to keep you company while you trudge through the muck, they also represent one of the oldest ways to stay fly and dry during a downpour.
The technique involved in waterproofing fabric goes back centuries, to when enterprising seafarers applied grease and fish oil to their sails to improve efficiency and weather-resistance on the seas. Those savvy sailors would also use the proofed cloth to make capes for themselves to stay dry (but also, given the fish oils, fragrant). Eventually, the fabric evolved from a heavy sailcloth to lighter cotton canvas, and the fish-based coatings were replaced with linseed oil and modern-day wax treatments.
Though waxed fabrics have made leaps and bounds since then, better-performing synthetics remain the standard. Walk into your local REI and most of the raincoats will be made from multi-layer bonded shells with DWR coatings and heat-sealed seams. In almost every way, materials like Pertex and Gore-Tex surpass the old-school capabilities of their historical predecessors. So why bother buying a waxed canvas jacket at all?
Good question! The answer is twofold. As capable as they are, synthetic jackets will eventually break down. And once they do, they’re actually more difficult to repair compared to their waxed counterparts, which require re-waxing only sparingly. Secondly, waxed jackets are known for their unique patina. Like your favorite jeans, their propensity to fade and crease over time, redistributing their oily finish to different parts of their exterior, is a huge part of the appeal.
And today, there's never been more ways to get your wax on. From brush-busting countryside coats to burly parkas to Bond-ian truckers, there's a waxy number for practically everyone in 2024—and almost definitely one on this list that's perfect for you.
Material: Cotton, Fit: Regular Lined: Yes Colors: Varies Sizes: 30-52
Chances are, Barbour is the first name that comes to mind when you think of waxed jackets. For well over a century, the iconic British brand has outfitted the countryside set in rugged waxed cotton gear, and today, the Bedale remains its most popular silhouette. It’s built with Barbour's Silkoil fabric, a 6 oz. waxed cotton canvas that's lightweight, pliable, and super durable. It comes with nifty details like handwarmer pockets, snap flap waist pockets, a protective storm flap, and a luscious corduroy collar. Take a peak inside and you'll find Barbour's signature Tartan cotton lining and a zipper detail for adding a wool or quilted liner for extra warmth. (You can also purchase a hood, which snaps into the collar for even more rain protection.) All of those details amount to an insanely durable and versatile jacket that works for three seasons—four, if you're really pushing it.
According to our writer, Gerald Ortiz, who's had this same jacket since 2013, the fabric is an ideal midweight and the wax wears down beautifully. Additionally, the metal snaps and brass zippers patina just as well as the shell, too. In the decade since he's had it, the fabric's barely had any fraying. As for the silhouette, go with your usual size for a boxy silhouette or size down one size for a slightly more tailored fit.
Material: Cotton Fit: Slim Lined: Yes Colors: Varies Sizes: XS-3XL; classic and tall
Icons like the Barbour Bedale are hard to beat, but Flint and Tinder's flannel-lined trucker jacket is a modern classic in its own right. The slightly cropped silhouette is flattering on almost everybody, which is the natural outcome when you crib inspiration from vintage denim jackets. The spot-on fit alone would be enough to earn it a spot on this list, but of course, it's got plenty of cold weather bona fides too. It derives its warmth from a substantial-yet-soft 7 oz. waxed sailcloth from Martexin, which makes it one of the few options on this list to use an American-made fabric. Plus, the body is fully-lined with a polyester blanket fabric that's plenty warm and soft enough to wear with just a T-shirt (or, for that matter, without a T-shirt). On top of that, it's cut, sewn, and finished in the USA, which keeps the carbon footprint low and the quality high.
Material: 59% cotton, 41% nylon Fit: Regular Lined: Yes Colors: Olive Sizes: XS-XXL; regular and tall
People often compare waxed jackets to leather jackets due to their tough exterior and rugged good looks. But that doesn't mean they have to share the same sticker shock. Banana Republic's “Tristan” utility jacket is our favorite budget waxed jacket thanks to its motorcycle-influenced details like the adjustable belt and angled chest pockets, not to mention its corduroy trim and sturdy cotton-nylon fabric. And for almost half the price of many of the other options here, you couldn't find a better waxed jacket.
Material: Cotton Fit: Regular Lined: Yes Colors: Varies Sizes: 36-46
Favored by motorcyclists around the world, the Belstaff Trialmaster is the quintessential British racing jacket. Celebs like Daniel Day-Lewis and Ewan McGregor are big fans, but you don't have to have an Emmy or an Oscar to look like a high-wattage star wearing one. (You don't have to know anything about motorcycles, either.) That angled chest pocket sure makes it easy to whip out your road map, though.
Shell: 45% Cotton 16% Nylon 39% Polyester Lining: Cotton Fit: Regular Lined: Yes Colors: Khaki and navy Sizes: 34-44
Waxed canvas jackets tend to appeal to the scruffy-faced, shit-kicker-wearing types (y'know, close relatives of those brolic seafarers and their fish oil-soaked jackets). Valstar's trench coat does not. Like all great trench coats, it's got volume and a beautiful drape. It's louche and elegant, like an Old Hollywood movie star. But just because it's so handsome doesn't mean it's delicate. The cotton-blend fabric is lightweight but durable and the wool lining will keep you plenty warm when the rain isn't the only thing you have to worry about. It's dashing over a suit, rakish over a knit polo and jeans, or just plain cool with a thrashed hoodie and a pair of shorts.
Shell: 100% Cotton, Lining: 100% Polyester Fill: 100% Polyester Fit: Regular Colors: Red Sizes: XS-XXL
You know that one very swaggy photo of Snoopy in a big red puffer jacket? Turns out, they made it a real thing. And, if you can believe it, it's even better than the cartoon. RRL's expedition-ready parka features a waxy oilcloth fabric that's milled in England by a factory that's been in the business of waxed fabrics since the 1880s. On top of that, the whole shebang is stuffed in heat-retaining poly-fill, lined with deep-pile fleece and trimmed with faux fur at the hood. In other words, you've got the guts of the coziest duvet with the shell of a weatherproofed military tent.
Shell: 14-oz. oil finish Tin Cloth, Lining: 6-oz. dry finish Cover Cloth Fit: Regular Lined: Yes Colors: Varies Sizes: XS-3XL; regular and long
Filson is kind of like the Ford F-150 of clothing—ultra-durable and ready for the toughest jobs. Its Cruiser Jacket, features the workwear stalwart's iconic Tin Cloth fabric which weighs in at a hefty 14-ounces (that's just a touch heavier than your average pair of jeans). It's stiff as a board and can actually stand on its own straight off the rack, but with some time and elbow grease, it'll soften up and age like George Clooney. Like the F-150, the Cruiser also happens to come with plenty of cargo space with a couple of chest pockets and pencil slots.
In celebration of its 50th anniversary, Patagonia released a slew of throwback items including this insulated parka which features a waxed cotton exterior made by the storied Scottish mill, Halley Stevensons, using paraffin-free, plant-based wax recovered from food industry waste. Coupled with a cozy cotton flannel lining and you've got so many reasons to feel good about this jacket.
Based off of vintage Navy deck jackets, Buck Mason's waxed Deck Jacket is as sturdy as it is cozy thanks to the Halley Stevensons waxed cotton and luscious corduroy collar.
A good old-fashioned chore coat, finished in a waxed fabric so you can now do your chores in the rain (yay!).
You can always count on Todd Snyder to produce some major head-turning linkups and this waxy number with Dehen is a prime example. Like the Buck Mason joint from above, this jacket gets its handsome looks from vintage Navy deck jackets. Unlike that Buck Mason joint, this one is built for brutal winters thanks to its boss-level shearling lining.
Mackintosh might be better known for its waterproof bonded coats, but this waxed-cotton sibling gives their cherished coats a charming ruggedness that's begging to be paired with jeans and boots.
Fishing for complements? More like hunting for likes!
Olderbrother's rain slicker is the epitome of sustainably-made new clothing. Organic cotton shell, natural pigment dye and an organic beeswax coating, all cut and sewn in California.
If the beautiful boxy cut doesn't get their attention, that fiery red colorway definitely will.
A tad longer than Barbour's Bedale jacket at a slightly friendlier price.
Waxed jackets make for a great rain jacket. Their waxy fabrics aren’t only water-resistant, but they’re also really durable, age well, and are a more natural, earth-friendly material compared to synthetic jackets which use polyester and DWR-coatings to achieve their waterproofness.
As for the downsides, waxed canvas needs to be reapplied over time as the wax will eventually rub off. Re-waxing your jacket requires time and patience, which can get annoying. You can send your jacket into be professionally re-waxed which is convenient, but more expensive. Additionally, waxed jackets tend to be heavier than modern rain jackets and less water-resistant.
For any clothing category, you can reliably look to the stalwarts and inventors of the genre. In this case, Barbour, Belstaff, and Filson, are some of the best to do it. But don’t mistake these brands as the best waxed canvas jacket for you. Each jacket has its own unique characteristics and what works for a lot of people doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the right option for everyone.
You can also lean on storied waxed fabric makers as a good indicator of quality. Though many of the high priests of waxed jackets don’t necessarily call out their fabric suppliers, a good deal of them use waxed fabrics from British Millerain and Halley Stevensons, both mills with generations of expertise with the unique material.
Step 1: Clean your jacket by using a damp cloth to wipe away dust and debris.
Step 2: Prepare the wax. Waxes can come in different forms. Some come in a tin which you then place in warm water in order to melt the wax. Other waxes are sold as a bar which must be softened with heat, often with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Step 3: Apply the wax. For tinned wax, dip a sponge or a clean rag into the wax and wipe the jacket evenly. For bar wax, rub the bar all over the jacket, applying the wax evenly. Then use a heat gun to melt the wax into the fibers of the jacket.
Step 4: Allow the jacket to dry. Hang your jacket to dry for about 24-48 hours, keeping it away from other clothes or objects to avoid staining anything with the still-wet wax. And voilà! Good as new.
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By The Editors of GQ
By Gerald Ortiz and Michella Ore
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