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Whether it’s wrinkles, crow’s feet, liver spots or marionette lines, getting older is not always fun for your skin. But while rubbing a mysterious substance on your face to look younger may sound like a snake oil scheme, science surprisingly suggests the opposite about many anti-aging serums.
“More than 20 years of data shows that actives like retinol, vitamin C and peptides lead to visible improvements in wrinkles, skin texture and overall skin appearance in as little as 12 weeks of treatment,” says board-certified physician Dr. Lori Aliksanian.
Still, just because certain ingredients have been proven to reverse some signs of aging, it doesn’t mean that all anti-aging serums are created equal or suited for everyone. Read on for a comprehensive look at how to find the best anti-aging serums out there.
Along with retinol, vitamin C and peptides, Aliksanian (founder of MedBeautyLA) mentions that other retinoids like retinaldehyde, as well as niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA), certain ceramides, peptides and antioxidants are all featured as key ingredients in anti-aging serums, because they have been the most extensively studied.
Finding the right anti-aging serum with powerful retinoids can be a delicate process, especially for customers who don’t know how to use retinol. Speaking of which, what does retinol do, exactly? Well, retinol is a type of retinoid, a strong vitamin A derivative that stimulates cell turnover and collagen production. This increased cell turnover can make skin more sensitive and it is not tolerated by everyone.
In contrast, vitamin C (aka ascorbic acid) “protects the skin against free radical damage and improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation, dark spots and redness,” explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman. Other vitamins like niacinamide or vitamin B3 help decrease hyperpigmentation. “It also fortifies the skin barrier and has anti-inflammatory effects,” she adds.
To avoid products that use excessive filler ingredients, look for serums with these ingredients in higher concentrations. The best way to tell how much of each ingredient is used is by looking at ingredient order, which is listed from largest to smallest quantity, or by weight.
Water is almost always listed as the first ingredient for skincare products, but these other key ingredients should be towards the front. Retinol, which is gentler in smaller concentrations, can be listed towards the middle.
Whether you’re looking for the best anti-aging eye cream, the best LED face masks or wondering if red light therapy is a good idea, age is an important variable to consider. The same is true for buying the best anti-aging serums for your skin.
“The desired outcome of a 25-year-old seeking an anti-aging product likely differs from that of a 50-year-old,” says Engelman. While younger people with more sensitive skin should look for products with lower concentrations of vitamin A or retinol, “Those looking to treat more advanced signs of aging are going to want products with higher concentrations of these anti-aging actives, so long as their skin can tolerate it.”
Experts agree that there are five primary types of skin — oily, dry, combination, sensitive and normal — and different ingredients and products are typically tailored for different types. “Too often people just cause their skin more irritation instead of more benefit because they choose products with ingredients that their skin doesn't like,” warns Julie Longyear, herbal chemist and founder of the skincare brand Blissoma.
Since there is a lot of nuance within these five types and everyone's skin has varying needs and sensitivities, Longyear recommends sampling products when possible, testing a patch of skin as a precaution, and keeping a journal to understand how your skin reacts to different formulas. “You need to know your own skin conditions, allergies and sensitivities, and what you're trying to do before you even decide what to buy,” she says.
The price point may not be the most important consideration in finding an effective anti-aging serum, but it may be a deciding factor — after all, it doesn’t matter if you find the best retinol cream if you can’t afford to use it regularly. The good news is that expensive does not always equate to the best skincare products. “Some very high-end brands at high price points contain a lot of filler ingredients but a low percentage of beneficial actives,” warns Aliksanian.
Your day-to-day habits are also an important consideration when purchasing anti-aging serum. If you do not keep a consistent nighttime routine, it may be better to pick a serum with retinol that only needs to be worn two or three nights a week. On the other hand, “If you are not a person who will realistically wear sunscreen daily, I would not recommend a product that will make your skin more sun sensitive, like retinol,” says Aliksanian. “This can actually expedite visible signs of aging when used without sunscreen.”
To reduce the signs of aging in sensitive skin, Engelman likes the brand Medik8. Although retinal can typically be harsh for more sensitive skin types, “Medik8 offers a ladder system with gradual strengths, allowing people to find a concentration that best suits their skin’s sensitivity and tolerance levels, and move up in time.” Opting for level one, or the 0.01% retinal formula, is a gentle but effective place to start with sensitive skin. The active ingredient in the serum is retinal, or retinaldehyde, a retinoid found to work 11 times faster than retinol — all without compromising sensitive skin.
Get it here: Medik8 Crystal Retinal, Level 1
By speeding up cell turnover, anti-aging serums can increase skin sensitivity and cause irritation. This makes it difficult to find a catchall retinol that is effective, yet gentle enough for most skin types. Still, Engelman recommends Kieh’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol with Ceramides and Peptide “because it is very fast absorbing and lightweight.” Although a few reviews report some irritation and redness after using, many glowing reviews from every skin type echo Engelman’s endorsement.
Some people experience irritation and redness when using retinol anti-aging serums, but Kiehl’s Micro-Dose formula is safe and effective for most skin types.
Get it here: Kiehl’s Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
Engelman suggests Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum to combat wrinkles specifically. “The capsules contain a powerful combination of retinol and ceramides and give you a precise amount of product, plus they’re biodegradable,” she says. It can be helpful to attack wrinkles from all angles, so if you’re also wondering how to get rid of under-eye wrinkles, the brand also makes a Line Erasing Eye Cream, similarly full of retinol and ceramides.
The best anti-aging serums for wrinkles contain retinol and ceramides, and Elizabeth Arden’s Line Erasing Night Serum capsules are loaded with both.
Get it here: Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum
Treating acne and aging simultaneously can be tricky, but Caudalíe’s Premier Cru Anti-Aging Serum can accomplish all of the above.
Get it here: Caudalie Premier Cru Anti-Aging Serum with Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid
Many people develop textured skin with age due to a build-up of dead skin cells, sun damage and other variables. In addition to addressing fine lines and wrinkles, a smoothing anti-aging serum is essential. “T.L.C. Framboos is formulated with some really excellent ingredients to help smooth and refine textured skin,” says Aliksanian. The blend of alpha hydroxy acids, salicylic acid and fruit extracts chemically exfoliates while smoothing and moisturizing the skin. This is optimal for resurfacing textured skin and for preventing build-up.
Textured skin occurs when dead skin cells build up over time, and it’s important to have an anti-aging serum that exfoliates, like Drunk Elephant’s T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Resurfacing Night Serum.
Get it here: Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Resurfacing Night Serum
Mature skin is not just skin that’s starting to get wrinkles, but skin that has lost firmness and elasticity, and developed sun damage and other aging spots. As hard as it can be to find a single serum to tackle all that, “Pro-Max Age Renewal from PCA Skin is packed full of peptides, growth factors and hyaluronic acids, which are all fantastic for improving age-related skin concerns,” says Aliksanian. Although it’s more expensive than other formulas, it is uniquely formulated to penetrate deeper into the skin than other products and is more effective for customers 40 and older.
Mature skin needs a special formula for wrinkles, age spots and loss of elasticity, and PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal can address all three issues.
Get it here: PCA Skin Pro-Max Age Renewal
Clinique Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter Face Serum is a great over-the-counter alternative for anyone who wants an anti-aging serum that can correct dark spots without requiring a prescription. “I like the Clinique dark spot corrector for its unique combination of exfoliating and brightening ingredients,” says Aliksanian. Specifically, the salicylic acid primes the skin to receive vitamin C, accelerating anti-aging and brightening effects. For these reasons, Aliksanian recommends this spot corrector “for anyone with mature skin starting to see dark spots.”
Stubborn dark spots are difficult to treat without medical-grade products, but Clinique Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter Face Serum can help even out skin tone.
Get it here: Clinique Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter Face Serum
Retinoids can cause higher levels of vitamin A in the body, which can pose a serious risk of birth defects to a fetus if used while pregnant. Consequently, Engelman recommends “pausing retinol use during pregnancy and breastfeeding and using bakuchiol instead, as it’s safe to use during pregnancy.” Medik8’s formula is more stable than other plant-based brands, some of which have mold issues.
Although research shows that bakuchiol has comparable results and was better tolerated than retinol, the Journal of Integrative Dermatology warns that there have been no large-scale studies to prove bakuchiol is entirely risk-free (the brand notes that it would not be ethical to test this on pregnant women). It is accurate to say that it is safer than retinoids, but discussing it with your OB-GYN first is imperative.
Anti-aging serums with retinoids are not considered safe for pregnancy, but Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides is an alternative that dermatologists recommend.
Get it here: Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides
Rosacea is a common condition that causes flushing and redness in the face. Scientists are unsure what causes it, but they suspect it's rooted in inflammation, and since skincare products can improve or worsen that, it's essential to find a gentle product when it comes to anti-aging serums. Aliksanian suggests steering away from retinol and looking for ingredients like centella and niacinamide, “which are effective yet gentle enough not to cause a flare,” she says. “I recommend The Ordinary's Niacinamide with Zinc serum.” At a far, far lower price-point than other anti-aging serums, The Ordinary is worth a try.
For anyone with rosacea, it’s hard to find anti-aging products that are gentle yet effective, but Ordinary’s anti-aging serum strikes the right balance.
Get it here: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Vitamin C is an essential, science-backed ingredient in many anti-aging serums because it reduces the appearance of wrinkles and dark spots, while similarly preventing acne and sun damage and slowing further signs of aging. “I recommend Medik8’s Super C Ferulic Serum for those looking to specifically target wrinkles, as it’s formulated with an impressive 30% ethylated L-ascorbic acid,” says Engelman. Typical L-ascorbic acid is unstable, meaning that it loses its efficacy when exposed to air or light. However, Medik8 has formulated a stable version of this. The only catch is that it’s a “very powerful, high-potency serum, so I would advise those with sensitive skin or no experience using a vitamin C serum to avoid it.”
Finding an effective anti-aging serum with vitamin C depends on finding stabilized L-ascorbic acid, and Medik8’s Super C Ferulic Serum has done just that.
Get it here: Medik8 Super C Ferulic
People in their 50s will generally be looking for a serum that can combat signs of aging. If PCA’s price point is too high, “I recommend the Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum due to the high concentration of powerful anti-aging ingredients like retinol, vitamin C and advanced ceramide,” says Engelman. Retinol boosts cell turnover and collagen production, while vitamin C further smoothes out and brightens the skin. Combined with ceramide that helps repair and restore the skin’s barrier, this formula helps correct and prevent signs of aging.
Treating advanced signs of aging requires a powerful serum like Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum.
Get it here: Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum
Most dermatologists (like Engelman) do not recommend retinoids until someone is in their late 20s or early 30s. Even when consumers reach that age, it’s important to introduce this gradually, which is why Engleman prefers Medik8 Crystal Retinal, but at a higher concentration than she did for sensitive skin — level 6, or 0.06% to be exact. “For someone in their 30s, I’d recommend Crystal Retinal 6,” she says. “But for someone with more mature skin and a higher tolerance for vitamin A, I’d recommend Crystal Retinal 10 or 20.” Like with all retinoids, it’s crucial for new users to test a patch of skin first to make sure their skin can tolerate it.
Most consumers should start using anti-aging serums with retinoids in their 30s, and Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is a great way to introduce them to their skin delicately.
Get it here: Medik8 Crystal Retinal, Level 6
The science of skincare is well researched, so we relied on current studies on key ingredients used in anti-aging serums and clinical trials conducted by brands. The opinions of doctors, other skincare experts and customer reviews were taken into account as well.
It is true that some key ingredients used in anti-aging serums are backed by research, and this includes many of the ingredients mentioned in our recommendations — retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA) and certain ceramides, peptides and antioxidants.
However, every expert agrees that the efficacy has to do with there being a high enough concentration and quality of these ingredients to reduce wrinkles, as well as smooth and brighten the skin, but not so much that it irritates or even damages the skin. The latter is a much trickier balance to strike with serum formulas that are marketed to all skin types. Consequently, to some extent, skeptics are correct.
“There are a lot of cosmetic products that really don't do much for the skin, or can even cause irritation,” Longyear notes. “It’s very possible for a serum to feel and smell nice but not have any real benefits beyond how it feels to use it.”
Experts like Engleman acknowledge that even clinically-backed serums that are highly reviewed for their efficacy can only do so much. “Topical solutions only have so much capacity to change the appearance of skin,” she says. “So it’s important to ground yourself in realistic expectations and stay consistent with a routine.”
This depends on the product. Serums with a lot of antioxidants can be used at any age because they prevent free radicals created from the sun, stress and inflammation from damaging skin cells. “Products that are mainly focused on antioxidants are fine to use at pretty much any age because everyone's body creates free radicals,” Longyear explains. “However, people will get more benefit out of them as they get older.”
That said, serums that are marketed as “anti-aging” usually include some sort of chemical compound to accelerate cell turnover, like retinoids or peptides, or plump the skin, like hyaluronic acid. Since these can disrupt natural repair processes of the skin, they should be avoided until your 30s, Longyear advises. “The skin concerns that mature skin faces are just very different from that of a teen or 20-something because it's a very different stage of life in every way.”
The key ingredients to look for in anti-aging serums are the ones that have the most research behind them, such as retinoids like retinol and retinal, vitamin C or ascorbic acid, niacinamide or vitamin B3. Ceramides like phytosphingosine and sphingosine, peptides like palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and antioxidants like resveratrol and ferulic acid have also shown promising results for anti-aging effects.
The directions for many anti-aging serums say to use them at night, partly because this is when the natural repairing processes of the skin take place. These instructions also have to do with the ingredients being used. Retinoids and glycolic acid, or alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), increase sun sensitivity, so using them during the day can backfire and speed up the signs of aging. That is why daytime use should be avoided.
Serums with niacinamide, peptides, ceramides, antioxidants and products specifically marketed towards sensitive skin types tend to be safer for daytime use; however, because everyone’s skin has the potential to react differently, it’s important to look up any unknown key ingredients, test a patch of skin first and consult with a dermatologist if necessary.
When investing in expensive products, it makes some sense to want a serum that you can slather on at any time of day. But that is not always what’s best, Aliksanian warns. “More is definitely not always better when it comes to applying your skin care products.”
Melanotan 2 AP Buyline’s content is created independently of The Associated Press newsroom. Our evaluations and opinions are not influenced by our advertising relationships, but we might earn commissions from our partners’ links in this content. Learn more about our policies and terms here.