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There’s an unspoken rule in the biking world: If a thief really wants your bike, they're gonna get it. That doesn’t mean you can’t mitigate this dire threat to your wheels, even in the age of battery-powered angle grinders. Bike lock makers are engaged in an arms race to develop reasonably priced and relatively light locks that can fend off grinders and other attacks, though they're still far more expensive than the previous generation of U-locks. To find the best bike lock for you, we tested the top options over several weeks in a wide variety of styles and price points, from the safest angle-grinder-resistant U-locks to miniature folding locks and everything in between. Below our main list, you'll also find tips on security ratings and how to properly employ your new lock to help keep your ride safe. tire locks for cars
Updated August 2024: We've done a total overhaul of this guide to feature a wider range of options, including a pick from the new class of grinder-resistant locks that are well-suited to protecting pricey ebikes.
Be sure to check out our related guides, including the Best Electric Bicycles, Best Electric Cargo Bikes, Best Ebikes for Elderly Riders, and Best Kids Bikes.
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Where To Lock Up Your Bike
You should lock your bike to a secure rack in a high-traffic area, whenever possible. This alone will keep away many opportunistic thieves as it’s just not worth the trouble to attract attention.
Use a bike rack over a more vulnerable anchor point, as it should be properly secured and bolted into concrete. This isn’t always the case—I recently found a rack in my local area with a loose bolt at the base—so keep an eye out.
Which Lock Type You Need
There are many ways to lock your bike securely, some of which will depend on the type of lock you’re using and the bike you’re locking.
For a regular-size U-lock, you’ll usually want to lock the bike around the frame and the back wheel, if space allows. Some methods suggest simply locking the back wheel, but this can leave the rest of your bike vulnerable. You’ll want to keep U-locks away from the ground, especially with concrete or asphalt, to prevent thieves from trying to smash it with a hammer or using leverage devices like a tire jack or iron.
If you’ve got a quick-release wheel, you may want to consider a dual-lock setup like the Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7 With Flex Cable (though this is not a grinder-resistant lock). Alternatively, you could use multiple locks, like a grinder-resistant lock for the frame and back wheel plus a chain or cable lock for the front wheel.
Chain locks can work well for securing both a frame and wheel, though they have their drawbacks. They’re usually quite heavy, especially the thicker ones that can better resist heavy bolt cutters. They’re also generally not nearly as grinder-resistant as our top picks. Again, keeping the chain off the ground will help ward off bolt-cutting thieves.
What To Know About Security Tags and Trackers
One key trick to tracking your bike is using a Tile or Apple AirTag hidden somewhere along the frame or under your seat so you can keep an eye on its position. Unfortunately, there are some real limitations to this method.
Both AirTags and Tile devices are limited to the range of their Bluetooth antennae. Tile devices come with a maximum 400-foot range for the Tile Pro, while the Tile Mate and Slim offer 250 feet. Apple doesn’t specify its AirTag range, but it's also limited by Bluetooth, with most testing putting it at around 30 meters or 100 feet.
AirTags and Tiles both offer some tracking features when out of range. AirTags can connect over the Find My Network, using other people’s Apple devices to anonymously track, while Tile devices can similarly track the device's last known location over Android phones, but this is far from perfect. Neither offers real-time GPS tracking, and both systems require other devices to track.
AirTags support ultra-wideband technology for Precision Finding (supported by iPhone 11 or higher) that can pinpoint the device more accurately than Tile trackers. On the downside, AirTags will chime when moved away from your phone as a safety precaution, which may alert thieves to their presence.
There are also real-time GPS trackers, such as the Invoxia, which charges a yearly subscription fee. These devices are pricier but potentially more effective since they don’t rely on Bluetooth, instead using real-time GPS location tracking. They’re generally larger and tougher to conceal than AirTags or Tiles.
Smart locks are relatively new to the bike-lock scene and have yet to make major waves. Smart locks like the I Lock It Plus (which we have not tested) can offer conveniences like keyless unlocking via your phone and even a smart alarm with up to 110 decibels of shrieking sound. That said, you’ll likely have your keys with you for most rides, and alarms can go off accidentally, causing more problems than they solve.
Even the pricier smart locks we've seen aren't grinder-resistant, so you’re trading some security for convenience. As noted in our Security Ratings section, we recommend making sure any lock you choose is independently rated by Sold Secure and/or ART to ensure objective testing for the best protection.
What To Know About Security Ratings
Some bike lock makers provide their own internal security ratings for guidance. Those can be helpful, but the most secure locks we've tested use standard ratings from objective sources, including Sold Secure, which offers ratings of multiple vehicle types between Bronze and Diamond, and ART, which uses a number scale from 1 to 5.
So what do these ratings actually mean? Here's a guide to two of the top lock-security firms and their rating systems:
Sold Secure was established in 1992 by Northumbria and Essex police in the UK. The brand is now owned and operated by the Master Locksmiths Association, a not-for-profit trade group. It uses a four-level rating system, as listed below.
Sold Secure Rating Levels: Bronze (lowest, secure against basic tools); Silver (midrange, secure against enhanced tools/determined attacks); Gold (second best, resistant against dedicated tools/attacks); Diamond (highest, resistant against destructive attacks and “special tools”).
The firm also uses separate ratings for different vehicle types, like bikes versus motorcycles (which it now calls pedal cycles and powered cycles, respectively). For example, the Hiplok DX has a Sold Secure Pedal Cycle Diamond rating and a Sold Secure Powered Cycle Gold rating. It's a good score, but it isn't as secure as top grinder-resistant options like the Litelok X1 or tougher locks like the Litelock X3 and Hiplock D1000, all three of which get Diamond ratings in both categories. Grinder-resistant locks will usually say so directly on the brand's site as well. When in doubt, you can always go to the Sold Secure website to check whether your lock is rated.
ART is a Dutch independent security firm that uses a five-star security system centered on vehicle type, durability, weather, environmental resistance, and resistance to attacks.
ART Rating Levels: 1/5 (minimum security rating, fit for a second bike lock only); 2/5 (higher security rating that represents good theft protection for bicycles, the minimum for most insurance companies); 3/5 (bicycle security for high risk of theft, also suitable for mopeds and scooters for insurance purposes); 4/5 (very high security rating for bicycles, good theft protection for motorcycles while traveling); 5/5 (highest security rating, sometimes required to insure motorcycles stored at home).
Litelok’s trusty X1 is our favorite all-around bike lock thanks to its mix of serious security and impressive versatility for a wide range of users, bikes, and racks. As an angle-grinder-resistant U-lock, the X1’s security scores are among the highest available, with only a few locks claimed to hold out longer against power-cutting criminals. The lock’s mix of high-strength ceramic composite material (which the brand calls “Barronium”) and its anti-rotation locking system—a thief has to cut both sides—means it lasts “at least” five times as long as top traditional U-locks against grinder attacks. No one tried to grind through the lock during my weeks of testing, but multiple users have reported Litelok's models have frustrated thieves for up to an hour, whereas a standard steel U-lock is likely to last only a few minutes.
Just as importantly, the X1 is easy to take along and use. Unlike its close competitor, the thicker Hiplok D1000, this is a full-size U-lock, so it loops over larger ebike frames like the Propella 9S Pro V2 I used in testing. At 3.7 pounds, its on the lighter side for high-security locks, fitting securely into its included mount or slipping into a backpack or holster. It’s not cheap, but it's an easier ask than Litelok's larger (and tougher) X3 to help put your fears to rest.
I'm a former daily bike commuter in Portland, a city that is to bike thieves what Rome is to Catholics, and I tested a number of locks during my time there. The best I found was a unique titanium U-lock from a company called TiGr, which makes them by hand in a small workshop outside Philly. The TiGr was strong, light, and unique enough to send thieves looking down the rack, as they generally prefer a known target to an unknown one. I still have that lock, but it was discontinued shortly after the start of the Ukraine war put a crunch on titanium imports.
The new model from TiGr is made of carbon steel and is actually a few grams lighter than the titanium version, with a little more flex. The new lock otherwise performs the same, and I've used it on both normal bikes and ebikes with thinner frames, like the Aventon Soltera2. It conveniently mounts on your frame where a water bottle cage would otherwise go. You can see how the TiGr does against various attacks in videos on the company's site, which is about as well as a standard steel U-lock from brands like Kryptonite and Abus—for an extra few bucks you're cutting 70 percent of their weight and getting the advantage of presenting a less common and predictable target. —Martin Cizmar
This Abus folding lock works extremely well for larger bikes like cargo ebikes or for locking up multiple bikes with a single lock. I like that it folds down to a manageable size when not in use, and you can easily slide it into its holster on your bike or into a pack or back pocket when needed. At a little over three and a half pounds, it's not light by any means, but it is a bit more svelte than many U-lock options I have tried. The mechanism to lock it is easy: Just slide the end of the chain into the slot and use the included high-quality key to secure it. It comes with two keys, including one with a built-in light for finding the keyhole in the dark. —Parker Hall
Seatylock’s miniaturized Foldylock Compact is a great choice if you want minimal fuss on your daily route. Its included mount attaches to your bike’s built-in rivets or, if you like to keep a water bottle there, you can use the included straps to attach it to your frame for a secure and silent setup. I love the lock’s smooth-glide design, making connecting and unfolding it slick and simple, and while it can be a little unwieldy to expand, its long reach made it easy to secure my bike's frame and back wheel to multiple anchor points. Its collapsible body easily fits in any backpack, fanny pack, or even your back pocket.
It’s reasonably robust for a folding lock, with bolts designed to be saw- and cut-proof, but they still provide a natural weak point for would-be thieves, and its frame is no match for severe attacks like an angle grinder. That said, the best bike lock is the one that’s always with you. As WIRED reviewer Adrienne So notes, the Foldylock Compact provides “the ideal compromise in terms of size, weight, security, price, and ease of use.”
As one of the most secure bike locks available, the Hiplok D1000 is a top option for anyone in a high-threat area where bike thieves thrive. The lock’s thick, hardened steel frame is reinforced with graphene to make it tenaciously troublesome to cut through. While no lock is angle-grinder-proof, Hiplock claims the lock holds out up to 20 times longer than traditional U-locks, with double-locking tabs that require thieves to cut through both sides.
Apart from its high price, the D1000’s biggest downside is its small circumference, making it tough to get around ebike frames, let alone your bike's back wheel. At over four pounds, it’s also quite heavy and doesn’t come with a mount, but it is compact enough to fit into small packs and holsters. In daily use, I appreciated the lock mechanism’s premium feel and extras like a rubberized cover for the keyhole to help keep it in prime working order over the long haul. This won’t be the right lock for everyone, but if you need a tough-as-nails option for those deep, dark alleyways, the D1000 delivers.
The KryptoLok Standard model is a good lock for those facing only moderate theft threats. It's not super thick or grinder-resistant, but it gets solidly middle-rung security ratings and includes protection against twist and drill attacks. Its weight of just under three pounds makes it pretty easy to tote around, and it comes with Kryptonite's Transit FlexFrame bracket for easy mounting to your bike's frame. I'm not a fan of the fabric mounting straps, as they can loosen over time, but they get the job done. – Matt Jancer
The Kryptonite Evolution Mini-7 locks in two places in the key cylinder, so a bike thief would need to make two cuts to break through it. The tubes are 13 millimeters thick instead of the Kryptonite New York's 16 millimeters, and being a "mini," the loop of the U is narrower. However, the included cable can be threaded through your front wheel, so you can better secure your whole bike without carrying a second lock. That's especially helpful for bikes with quick-release front tires. – Matt Jancer
The Palmy is an aluminum U-lock that is not all that secure. As in, you could definitely break it with one good swing of a hammer. However, a thief wouldn't know that just on sight if you get it in black. This low-security U-lock is better than a cable lock and will stop your bike from just rolling away. It's both super light (10 ounces) and very cheap (less than $40). I've used it on cheaper bikes even in larger cities, and it's perfect for situations such as a long ride into the countryside—occasions when you would feel better locking your bike up while grabbing lunch or supplies but don't want to lug around a hefty steel lock you really don't need. —Martin Cizmar
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