Constructing your own garments isn’t as complex as it seems, as long as you take it one stitch at a time
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Ever since I started sewing my own clothes in 2021, I’ve turned everything in my closet inside out to figure out how it’s made. I find myself saying dorky things like “Oh, that’s a flat felled seam,” or, “A welt pocket would’ve looked better.” My dog stares at me and my husband nods his head, like, sure, whatever you say, boss.
Sewing, as both a creative outlet and a practical skill, connects me deeply to my clothing—a mindset shift in our consumerist world of mass produced, on-demand goods. I don’t go a week without wearing something I made myself, whether it’s a button-up shirt or a patchwork tote bag or elastic linen pants. Naturally, I’ve tackled more advanced projects as my skills have progressed. I’ve gotten faster, smarter, and more precise with the sewing machine.
My list of DIY projects is endless. Sure, I could buy the things on my wardrobe wishlist. But I find that way less gratifying and way more wasteful. Sewing clothes myself means I can customize fit, fabrics, colors, buttons, thread, and everything else. I make mistakes, but that just adds to the garment’s story.
On my list of projects since the very beginning of my sewing journey has been a sturdy chore coat. All classic workwear, like the best double knee pants, are sturdy, perfect for layering, and ideal for transitional seasons. I finally made time to sew not one, but two jackets this year—one for me, one for my husband. Below, I’ve shared steps and resources for making your own, with the hope of demystifying the process.
If I can do it, you can too.
Before I start sewing anything, I look at mood boards and wardrobe wish lists to help me hone in on a pattern and fabric. That overpriced jacket you’ve been lusting after? You can probably dupe it for less money. I tend to take my time on this step because hasty decisions will only result in wasted time and materials making garments I’ll never wear. Trust me that this doesn’t feel good.
For this chore coat, I chose Friday Pattern Company’s Ilford Jacket because I liked the variety of pockets, plus it comes with a three-part video tutorial detailing every step. Other chore coat patterns that caught my eye are the Fabrics Store Paola Workwear Jacket (free to download), Merchant & Mills Ottoline Jacket, and Birgitta Helmersson Zero Waste Jacket.
For fabric I picked a soft but structured cinnamon 9.5 oz bull denim from Blackbird Fabrics. (I also made an Ilford Jacket in 10 oz brushed bull denim, and it’s a bit stiffer.) To determine the amount and kind of fabric you need, refer to your pattern, which will suggest fiber types and yardage.
You can either print out the PDF pattern at home and tape the tiles together, or you can skip that tedious step altogether and find a shop to print gigantic A0 pages (my preferred method). Match your chest, waist, and hip measurements to the size chart included in the pattern, and cut out the pattern pieces with regular scissors. Fabric comes next.
Don’t be scared! You can either use a rotary blade to cut around the paper pattern (just weigh down the pattern with cans or something heavy). Or you can pin your paper pattern to the fabric and cut around it with fabric shears. Transfer any markings that’ll be handy during assembly (like notches), and label your pieces and the right/wrong sides of the fabric with chalk or masking tape so you don’t get them confused.
It’s always best to get the most complicated step out of the way first. In this case, it’s the sleeve placket—the opening at the end of a jacket or shirt sleeve that closes with a button. You can also skip this step if you opt for a basic but easier box sleeve, which looks just as sharp.
This is a good spot to note that your iron will become your best friend in your sewing adventures (don’t tell your sewing machine). Pressing folds with an iron when the instructions recommend it will make constructing pieces easier by keeping lines crisp and precise.
This is the stage that your coat will start taking shape. With right sides facing, pin your back panel to the front panels. Stitch at the shoulders, then finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch, a serged stitch, or by encasing it with bias binding, which is what I did after following the tutorial. This will ensure that your seams don’t fray over time.
Next come the sleeves. I encased three edges with bias binding like in the tutorial, but you can also finish them with a zig-zag stitch or serged stitch. Then carefully follow the pattern’s instructions for assembling them to the bodice. After, try it on and make any fit adjustments.
These are the finishing details that will make your mound of fabric look like a real jacket. The Ilford pattern has clear instructions that make assembly super easy, but the collar and front button placket will be the trickiest. Make sure to line up notches, press your folds with an iron, and stitch slowly. Take it one step at a time.
Sewing pockets was my favorite step because it’s easy to customize. The pattern comes with a variety of options: chest pockets and hand pockets, angled pockets and squared pockets, plus pocket flaps and a pencil pocket. You can also draft your own if you want curved pockets, for example. Then you get to arrange them however you’d like. Perhaps a notebook pocket on the back?
To start, you’ll fold, press, and stitch the top edge of the pocket. Then you’ll fold under the other three sides, and pin and stitch it to the bodice. Repeat for every pocket.
You’re almost done! The number of buttons you need depends on the length of your jacket, and if you created the sleeve placket, don’t forget to get two extra buttons. I like picking contrasting button colors—the cinnamon jacket has cream buttons, and the cream jacket has tan buttons.
This is the final step, so take your time. I like to add the buttons on a day when I haven't done any other sewing, when I’m in a good mood. Learn how to use your specific machine’s buttonhole settings by searching for your specific model on YouTube. Once you’ve stitched your buttonholes, use a seam ripper to gently and carefully open the holes.
Then you can either sew buttons by hand (this is a good tutorial) or using your machine (I like this tutorial). Alternatively, you could use snaps or no-sew buttons like these.
And that’s the final step! Give it a good press with the iron so it’s got that new crispness. Now you’ve got a jacket made by you. No brand tags on the inside or outside. Just your hard work (and possibly a few mishap stitches) as evidence.
Got the DIY bug? Find other fun do-it-yourself projects, big and small, like this DIY Sauna and DIY hot tub
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