Experts share tips on the best ways to make at-home laser hair removal devices work for you.
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At-home laser hair removal ticks off all the boxes we want in the hair removal process. Easy to use? Check. Actually works? Check and god bless. Cost-effective? Sure (we’re all about the cost-per-use justification here).
A quick refresh: Laser hair removal uses a laser’s energy to target the hair follicle’s pigment to end its growth cycle and reduce its thickness. It's a popular method because it gets rid of unwanted hair without the pain, cuts, and ingrown hairs that come with other hair removal treatments like shaving and waxing.
If you’ve finally decided that an at-home laser hair removal device is worth the investment (and it is a hefty one, since a single device might run you a couple hundred dollars), then you’re going to want to know how to use it the right way so that you’re not throwing money down the drain. Step one: Make sure any device you choose is approved by the US Food & Drug Administration (FDA), which indicates that the device has been tested for safety and efficacy.
Here’s what else you should consider, per experts:
Meet the experts: Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology in New York City. Joshua Zeichner, MD, is board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Arguably the most important step: "When choosing a device, one should consider the technology it uses,” says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology. “This will determine its effectiveness and suitability for different skin and hair types.” These are your options:
As mentioned previously, at-home laser hair removal is most effective on those with lighter skin and dark hair. Dr. Garshick says this is because lasers target the melanin in hair. Joshua Zeichner, MD, board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research of the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, agrees and adds that while light hair can be treated, it tends to be more resistant to laser since there isn’t much pigment in the follicle. For white hair, Dr. Zeichner recommends electrolysis over laser for hair removal.
Before you start treatment, you’ll want to prep the skin. Dr. Garshick says that you should shave and remove surface hair (but keep the hair follicle intact) and to avoid anything that would remove the root such as waxing, plucking, or tweezing. Skin should be clean and completely dry, and she recommends staying away from lotions, oils, deodorants, or any other products that could create a barrier between the laser and hair follicle. You’ll also want to avoid sun exposure or tanning at least two weeks before using a device; tanned or sunburned skin can increase the risk of burns and hyperpigmentation, she says.
While you might think it’s a good idea to use a laser once, twice, or even three times to really remove a difficult hair follicle, turns out it will do more harm than good. To minimize the risk of burns, irritation, hyperpigmentation, and other unwanted side effects, Dr. Garshick says to treat each area of skin once per session. She explains that repeatedly zapping the same spot can cause unnecessary damage, so don’t overdo it.
You’ll also want to avoid areas that have tattoos, moles, or birthmarks as well as concentrated darker pigmented areas. Dr. Garshick explains that lasers target melanin, and using one on large concentrated melanated areas can lead to burns or discoloration.
Sensitive skin is more prone to negative reactions to harsh treatments, and lasers—even the at-home ones—are no exception. Dr. Garshick says you’ll want to avoid the eyebrow and genital areas, as they are some of the more sensitive places on your body and may react unpredictably. If you really want to permanently remove the hair in your bikini area, consider reaching out to a professional for help—if not, you still always have the option to shave or wax using an at-home kit.
Once the laser shocks the hair follicle, Dr. Zeichner says that it will take a few weeks for it to start growing back. Sticking to a schedule will get you the best results, as hair best responds to laser when the follicle is in an active growth phase. So being consistent is key.
Taking care of freshly lasered skin is pretty easy. Dr. Garshick recommends keeping your routine simple and focusing on hydration by applying a soothing moisturizer. Make sure anything you use is free of any harsh exfoliants, scrubs, or active ingredients that might cause irritation. You’ll also want to minimize sun exposure and use SPF whenever you can.
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