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It’s like a law among skin-care ingredients: Actives must have an equal and opposite benefit. But the best peptide serum can offer so much more than a singular advantage. Rather, these formulas —powered by peptides, or small chains of amino acids that support communication between cells —can yield a variety of perks, such as added moisture, increased collagen production, and a reduction in pigment production.
That’s because not all peptides are created equal. “What a peptide offers is entirely dependent on its molecular size and chemical structure,” says Carmen Castilla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, NY. In other words, different types of peptides can offer unique benefits: For instance, some can spur collagen production, while others inhibit enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, thus preserving what your skin already has. And others can bolster the penetration and function of other ingredients, like hyaluronic acid—therefore offering more indirect benefits.
With that, scroll ahead for the best peptide serum for every skin concern and goal.
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Peptide serums are concentrated formulas that contain molecules called peptides, which are naturally found in skin. “Peptides act as messengers for the skin by sending signals to skin cells to stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and other components of the extracellular matrix,” says Jeanette Graf, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and professor at Mount Sinai School of Medicine.
Unlike other ingredients, peptides “operate at the level of a cell receptor — and, due to their small size and specificity, can fit in whereas most other active ingredients don’t,” she says.
Peptide serums can address a wide variety of concerns, such as “reducing the appearance of wrinkles, improve the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and promote elasticity,” says Melanie Palm, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego, CA.
Their exact benefit, however, largely depends on the peptide in question. “Signal peptides enhance production of collagen and elastin, while carrier peptides can help vital ingredients get to their target sites to increase collagen production,” says Dr. Castilla. Meanwhile, enzyme-inhibitor peptides can inhibit the enzymes that break down collagen, leading to lax skin and wrinkles.
One increasingly popular type of peptide is a neuropeptide, or “neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides,” says Dr. Castilla. This peptide can “block the release of neurotransmitters that relay muscle signals.” In other words, it acts similarly, albeit on a much smaller scale, as neuromodulators, relaxing the facial muscles to minimize expression lines.
Dr. Graf recommends using a formula that “combines the benefits of peptides with other skin-benefitting ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and glycerin,” she says. These help protect the skin barrier, and leave skin feeling plump and smooth.
It’s also helpful to consider the peptide in the serum. Signal peptides and carrier peptides currently have the most evidence to back up their anti-aging benefits—with copper peptides being among the most common and best studied signal peptides, says Dr. Castilla.
Finally, consider your skin concerns. For instance, “if you are looking for plumper, smoother skin, choose a signaling peptide in a formulation that also provides hydration, such as hyaluronic acid,” she says.
If you already use an antioxidant serum, a retinoid, and a sunscreen, then a peptide serum is a good addition to enhance your anti-aging routine, according to Dr. Castilla. “In general, peptides play more of an additive role, rather than an ingredient that will provide comprehensive benefits,” she says.
They can also offer a preventative effect. “The longer you use peptides, the more benefits you will see for the skin,” says Dr. Graf. “By stimulating important proteins, like collagen, skin is left firmer and brighter—and signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles, are slowed.”
Finally, peptide serums are also a good option for those who can’t tolerate irritating ingredients, such as retinoids, as they offer a similar ability to stimulate collagen production—although to a lesser degree. But they don’t come with the risk of irritation, making them a good option for those with sensitivities.
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