These capable, accurate, reliable machines help you build what you envision.
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Whether you’re cutting plywood sheets, dimensional lumber, or breaking down hardwood pieces to feed through a table saw, a circular saw is an invaluable tool to have on hand. These handheld cutters feature large circular blades and powerful motors that slice through wood, so they’re more efficient and versatile than manual hand saws and smaller jigsaws. Circular saws are also relatively compact, lightweight, and easy to transport—especially compared to bulkier table saws—and are available in both corded and battery-powered options.
Bottom line: the circular saw is the best tool for fast and accurate cutting. Here at Popular Mechanics, we constantly test and use circular saws in our own projects. Our favorites below range from budget-friendly models to pro-duty tools that a contractor could use to frame a house.
Circular saws are powerful tools that crosscut wood (across its grain) and rip it (with the grain). Save for the rear-handle saws we cover, the tools that we tested don’t exhibit much design variation. With a few exceptions, most of their blades are 7.25 inches in diameter and positioned on the right side of the motor. When the blade is fully lowered, the saw cuts to about 2.25 inches deep (or slightly deeper).
For corded saws, power is expressed in amperage (the amount of electricity it draws), with 15 amps being the most common across the board (and more powerful than almost all cordless saws). Battery-powered saws rate power in voltage, which can vary from 12 to 60 volts. While it’s true that higher voltage draws more current from the battery to the motor, the size of the battery also plays an important role. Measured in amp-hours (Ah) the battery’s capacity ultimately determines how long it can provide the intended voltage.
The speed at which the saw’s motor can spin its blade–measured in revolutions per minute (RPM)–has a direct effect on its performance, and is a useful metric to compare one saw’s potential productivity versus another. Essentially, the higher the RPM, the quicker the motor can spin the blade, and the faster it cuts through material. Circular saw speed varies from saw to saw, with 4000 to 5500 RPM sufficient for the average DIY-er.
Circular saws are available in both corded or cordless models. To choose the best option for you and your project, it’s important to understand pros and cons of each.
Although their mobility is limited by the length of your extension cord, corded saws are almost always more powerful than cordless options, and with no runtime to worry about, their motors deliver consistent results all day. Corded circular saws are also typically cheaper than cordless. If you don’t want to worry about purchasing and charging battery packs, and you primarily work in a garage or workshop, a corded circular saw is a great option.
The portability of battery-powered saws is a major selling point. They’re convenient to transport to and from a job site (even if that’s your backyard or driveway), and as long as the battery is charged, ready to cut as soon as you are. Their limited runtime is the obvious drawback, but if you buy a saw within the same brand as your existing power tools, the extra batteries can make this less of an issue.
The most common circular saw blade sizes are 5 ½, 6 ½, and 7 ¼-inches in diameter, although you can find a range of smaller or larger options. The larger the blade, the deeper it can cut, and the more functionality it has in the woodshop. Circular saws that use 7 ¼-inch blade saws are a useful, all-around size for most DIY-ers, and since they’re so popular, spare blades are easy to find.
That said, we’ve found 6 ½-inch models to be especially convenient and comfortable to use for common cross and rip cuts, and depending on your cutting requirements (their shallower cut depth isn’t ideal for 45-degree cuts), their lighter weight and compact size are worth the compromise.
If you’re ambitious, you might want the same saw the pros use. Contractor-grade saws can have the blade on the left or the right of the motor, and corded models have motors that draw as much current as 15 amps. The saw rides on a larger, more durable shoe and is equipped with a big, tough trigger switch, larger and tougher bearings, and a thick but highly flexible cord. These features promote durability but increase the saw’s weight. The average homeowner-duty corded saw (with a motor drawing 12 amps) weighs 8 to 9 pounds. Contractor saws start at 10.5 pounds and go up from there.
But a contractor-grade saw may not help you get the job done faster, believe it or not. While it’s true that pro saws cut faster compared to homeowner saws, their most important attribute is durability. If you’re a homeowner working with a pro-level circular saw, you may find it too heavy and be unable to take advantage of its speed and power. You could also be paying for more than what you’d reasonably need.
With manufacturers working so hard to develop cordless tools, you also may wonder if these are the best fit for you. Homeowner-grade cordless saws have enough power to cut 2 x 3 and 2 x 4 lumber, pine planks, and plywood. But if you expect to make more difficult cuts—such as plunging through an interior floor, framing out your basement, or cutting pressure-treated lumber—opt for a heavy-duty cordless or corded circular saw. Since spare batteries are expensive, and many cordless models are available as “tool-only” options, it’s a good idea to stick with the same brand across all your power tools. This way you already have a supply of batteries on hand and are less limited by their individual runtimes.
Aside from the saw, you need a couple of carpenter’s pencils (regular mechanical pencils are also perfectly fine) and a combination square to both mark the lumber and guide the saw for accurate crosscuts. For corded circular saws, you also need a heavy-duty extension cord. Regardless of the type of saw you use, always wear safety glasses and ear protection.
Popular Mechanics has been testing and reviewing home improvement products and tech for over a century, and its current test team has decades of experience running various products through a battery of scrutinizing tests. Roy Berendsohn has been a senior test editor with the publication for more than 35 years, and has more than 50 years of experience operating circular saws. He’s witnessed the introduction and rise of battery-powered saws, and with his range of experience in different applications, he has a comprehensive idea of what exactly makes a circular saw effective, and for what purpose. Brad Ford is another editor on our test team with years of DIY experience using a wide range of tools. He also contributed to this article, testing several circular saws in our roundup and providing his recommendations for the best circular saws worth buying.
Alex Rennie is a Popular Mechanics freelance writer, who, as a former commercial and residential carpenter, also has used both corded circular saws in a furniture workshop and battery-powered models on site. He’s used his experience and passion for deep research to write reviews, product guides, and how-to articles for publications like Family Handyman, Business Insider, and CNN Underscored.
In order to confidently recommend the models on this list, we source each saw for real-world testing on a range of wood types and cuts. We ran the entire group through a hands-on evaluation process, using each saw to cut across and with the grain, the blade perpendicular to its shoe and at an angle to it. To get a better idea of the accuracy and quality of each saw, we also performed a series of hairsplitting crosscuts, using our speed square as a guide. If the saw moved off the square (and the cutline), we knew something was amiss. The most common cause is a saw motor and body that makes a slightly sloppy fit with the shoe on which it rides.
Here’s how the best corded and cordless saws—from inexpensive, homeowner-duty saws to pro-worthy models—fared in our test.
We’ve tested many circular saws, and this one comes as close to perfection of the form as is possible. Equipped with a standard 7.25-inch blade, an 8-Ah battery and weighing 11.6 pounds, it’s a nimble cutter by itself. But the good news gets better: It has an aluminum accessory track—no special shoe or mounting hardware required. Lay the track on the board or plywood and slide this Bosch down it like a locomotive riding the rails. The resulting rip or crosscut is table saw-accurate.
To control cutting depth, the Bosch circular saw has a thumb latch right above the trigger. Move the latch forward and press down, and the saw’s shoe drops. To fine-tune the shoe’s position, simply hold it with one hand while pressing down on the latch. When the shoe is where you want it, release the latch. And the amount of blade exposure below the shoe is right where you need it.
There’s also an eco setting that reduces power for light cutting while conserving battery life, and six speeds for enough range to make multiple cuts in thin plywood on low to full bore (and maximum blade depth) to cut construction lumber. A battery life readout tells you how much charge you have left.
Skil has a long history with the circular saw, and it puts that institutional knowledge to good use with this inexpensive but capable tool. Among the homeowner saws we tested, this one is about as close to pro-grade as you can get. And given what it costs and its price-performance ratio, it’s a fine choice for a contractor to keep this saw on the truck as a backup or a tool.
It’s accurate and handles well, the depth of cut is easy to adjust, and the shoe is perfectly parallel with the blade. We were also pleasantly surprised by the torque its 15-amp motor provides. Even with the blade fully submerged in lumber for rips and crosscuts, it powered through nicely.
DeWalt took its 20-volt cordless circular saw and sent it to the gym. Now it can run on a standard 20-volt Max battery or the hulking dual-voltage 20/60 Flex Volt power pack (not included). The latter enables a ridiculous amount of cuts on one charge or repeated cuts at its depth of 2-9⁄16 inches. It made so many buzzes through 2 x 4 in our test that we didn’t even bother counting them; we ran out of wood before the battery showed any signs of fading. Suffice it to say that the larger the amp hours of the power pack you put in this thing, the more cuts you can expect—up to a day’s work or close to it.
During our testing, we found this circular saw really comfortable to operate, thanks to the ergonomic handle positions and rubber grip. We also appreciated the effectiveness of the electronic blade brake, which stops the blade from spinning in a second or two as soon as you release the trigger.
Overall, DeWalt’s cordless circular saw is a powerful, smooth-cutting tool with outstanding accuracy. If you’re thinking of going cordless but, want to ensure you maintain pro performance, this is the one to get.
The Metabo-HPT embodies aspects of the traditional left-blade circular saw that have endeared it to generations of carpenters. Its chief virtue is that it has a high power-to-weight ratio. This saw is a fast-cutter, even if it’s not quite as strong as heavy-duty 40- or 60-volt, rear-handle saws, but (depending on the saw you’re comparing it to) it is almost 3 to 4 pounds lighter. Since house framing is all about speed, weight counts. Shaving a couple of pounds off may equate to finishing the house sooner, which could contribute to your bottom line.
But let’s say that you’re simply a do-it-yourself owner-builder type. This circular saw is a pleasure to use for just about any DIY project. It cuts any typical framing material but also handles the 4 x 6 pressure-treated timber we use to test rear-handle saws, with enough power for full-depth cuts of about 2.5 inches. That means you can use it for breaking down plywood sheets or lengths of hardwood lumber for that furniture you want to build.
In fact, during our testing, this circular saw did just as well cutting full-depth bevels as it did full-depth rips and crosscuts. Our verdict? Its light weight, power, and easy-handling features help to make this a truly productive circular saw.
We test homeowner and professional circular saws the same way. In the case of this 20-volt Hart, that meant cutting Douglas fir framing lumber, sawing through the 1.5-inch thickness and also with the board turned on edge so the blade was fully submerged at its maximum depth in the lumber.
Our verdict: You won’t confuse this saw with one used to frame houses; push it too hard and you trip its thermal cutoff. But it’s got enough oomph for cutting some lumber, including a 4 x 4. We liked the lock button (officially, the spindle lock); press it to hold the blade in place to more quickly turn off the nut that tightens down on the blade. We also appreciated its safety latch, which is easy for both right- or left-handed users to operate.
What makes a saw standout for cutting shoring and industrial lumber? This material is thicker, wider, and more difficult to handle and cut than standard lumber used to build houses. It’s used for jobs like supporting ships in shipyards and propping up gigantic pipes and valves in fabrication facilities. It’s the shoring material that’s used to stabilize the wall of excavations, usually around foundations but also pipe trenches.
In most cases, there are only two ways to cut it: with a chainsaw or the toughest circular saw you can lay your hands on. This Flex’s power makes it superior for this “toughest of the tough” cutting because it has the power of its peers (DeWalt and Milwaukee) but much easier to handle.
Its balance and geometry help you settle it quickly on the cut line, and it has more than enough power to see the cut through to completion. Since this type of extra-heavy-duty work is typically done in poorly lit conditions, the Flex’s work light is a huge help. If cutting industrial material is your game, consider this Flex.
We liked this 20-volt saw’s handling, light weight, power, and fantastic line of sight to the blade. So much so that we used it to test 7.25-inch circular saw blades that we were investigating for recent coverage. We didn’t pamper it, cutting Douglas fir framing lumber and red oak. Everything about the saw is excellent, from its workmanship to its reliable cordless power to the accuracy of its cut. It can also perform bevel cuts up to 56 degrees—with positive stops at 22.5 and 45 degrees–and the brushless motor lasts much longer than lower-quality brushed saws. If any workmanship or material issues do arise, Craftsman’s 3-year limited warranty has you covered.
If you’re in the 20-volt Craftsman system–and have a supply of compatible batteries on hand–we fully recommend adding this to your arsenal. You won’t be disappointed.
This petite saw weighs a mere 7.7 pounds, yet we found it to be unusually capable. Equipped with a 7.25-inch blade, it made short work of 4 x 6 pressure-treated lumber, 2 x 10 Douglas fir, 3⁄4-inch plywood, and laminate flooring. And with the 4-Ah battery, this 20V saw does a significant amount of work before you need to swap in a new one or give it a recharge. When that time comes, the quick charger brings the battery pack to full power in about 2 hours. To those attributes, we would also add that it’s well-balanced and easy to handle. While anyone can appreciate those features, it’s especially nice if you use the saw only on weekends for home projects.
You can’t help but be impressed by this Milwaukee saw’s cutting power and longevity. Slide in a massive 12-Ah battery and you’ve got several hours of carpentry capability unencumbered by a cord.
Our 4 x 6 pressure-treated lumber was no match for it, barely putting a dent in its battery capacity. Furthermore, it really does cut with the same authority that we get from our old corded worm-gear saw, but the Milwaukee is infinitely safer and more productive due to its electric brake that instantly stops the blade the moment you let off the trigger.
Would the Milwaukee be suitable for framing a house? Yes, in the sense that its massive motor and equally sturdy gear assembly provide it power to spare–more than enough for house carpentry. On the other hand, all that motor and gear assembly creates a lot of outboard weight and bulk to the right of the blade. In that respect, it’s very much like a corded worm-gear saw. So if you’re already framing with a corded worm-gear saw and have a well-developed right forearm, the Milwaukee is a great fit.
But perhaps a better application for this is cutting form lumber for concrete and making cuts in industrial lumber used to shore up excavations and mines. In those applications, much of the cutting goes on at a central cutting station. Power and durability, not so much mobility, rule the day in those applications. And if you need those two features, this Milwaukee delivers.
This saw is the primary workhorse in Roy Berendsohn’s shop, whose glowing endorsement made it an easy choice as our top corded option. Its 15-amp motor powers through lumber fast enough to earn a living with it, and thanks to the electronic brake system that stops the blade as soon as you release the trigger, you can make your next cut right away. A built-in dust blower helps keep your cut line free of dust and debris, improving visibility and increasing overall accuracy. It’s not cheap, but with a solid recommendation from Roy, this saw is worth the investment for anyone who needs the unlimited runtime and power of a corded saw.
Brad described this Milwaukee saw as “an absolute pleasure to use,” noting that it glided across plywood with minimal effort or deviation. He also praised the M18’s bright, forward-shining LED, which illuminates the work area and makes it easy to stay on his cutlines. Its bevel markings are also clear and easy to read, allowing for quick and accurate adjustments. The 6 ½-inch blade is smaller than the 7 ¼ versions on most circular saws, so make sure its maximum cut depth of 2 3/16-inches isn’t an issue for your intended task.
This model is only available as a bare tool with no battery, so unless you’re prepared to purchase one, it’s a better choice for those with an existing M18 Fuel tool collection.
At 7.6 pounds, this DeWalt saw was the lightest model tested, and especially comfortable to maneuver and operate. Its compact size–less than 16 inches front-to-back–is also convenient for use in tight or awkward spaces, and easier to store or transport than bulkier models. We also found the simple cam levers–used to lock in bevel and cut depth adjustments–to be easy to use. This kit also includes a snap-on dust chute, which connects directly to your shop vac or dust extraction system. It’s worth noting that the 18-tooth blade results in rougher cuts than the 24-tooth blades on most saws.
Alex Rennie is a freelance writer who specializes in the Home Improvement, DIY, and Tool space. As a former residential and commercial carpenter, Alex uses his hands-on experience to write practical buying guides, how-to articles, and product reviews. His work has also appeared in Business Insider's Insider Picks, and before his writing career, he was a full-time carpenter living in New York City. There, he worked as part of a team designing, building, and installing large furniture pieces, as well as performing a variety of home repair and maintenance projects. Alex currently lives in Los Angeles, CA, and spends his free time exploring the beaches and mountains with his fiancé and their dog Louie.
Roy Berendsohn has worked for more than 25 years at Popular Mechanics, where he has written on carpentry, masonry, painting, plumbing, electrical, woodworking, blacksmithing, welding, lawn care, chainsaw use, and outdoor power equipment. When he’s not working on his own house, he volunteers with Sovereign Grace Church doing home repair for families in rural, suburban and urban locations throughout central and southern New Jersey.
Brad Ford has spent most of his life using tools to fix, build, or make things. Growing up he worked on a farm, where he learned to weld, repair, and paint equipment. From the farm he went to work at a classic car dealer, repairing and servicing Rolls Royces, Bentleys, and Jaguars. Today, when he's not testing tools or writing for Popular Mechanics, he's busy keeping up with the projects at his old farmhouse in eastern Pennsylvania.
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