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A sneak peek into the vanities of the beauty-obsessed or a trip to a facialist will introduce you to the best LED light therapy tools. From the bright lights to the robotic-looking masks, it can feel like skin care of the future, and a bit perplexing if you aren’t familiar with the technology.
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“LED stands for light emitting diode, a light source that shines on (and penetrates into) the skin,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jennifer MacGregor tells Vogue. “Different wavelengths of light can be used—blue and red being the most common. The light penetrates into the skin and affects gene expression and cellular function leading to a variety of effects in the skin that are only partially understood.” She continues that certain wavelengths can kill microbes (like bacteria)—working in tandem with topical products to treat an array of skin conditions.
And so, the LED devices often offer an assortment of different light colors based on your skin’s needs. “Blue LED light treats acne by killing acne-causing bacteria. Green and yellow LED light treat sensitivity and uneven skin color. Red LED light stimulates collagen and elastin, which can help with anti-aging,” explains esthetician, makeup, and beauty expert Tiara Willis, whose work is centered around treating skin of color.
And so, from face masks to portable wands, here are eight of the best LED light therapy tools that will work overtime to transform your skin.
MacGregor continues that certain wavelengths can kill microbes (like bacteria)—working in tandem with topical products to treat an array of skin conditions. And so, the LED devices often offer an assortment of different light colors based on your skin’s needs; dermatologist Dr. Divya Shokeen details the differences below.
According to MacGregor, light therapy truly does work for the skin. “How it works and how much it works is related to the target indication, the wavelength of light used (affects depth of penetration and action), how much power the light source has, and how long the light is used on the skin.” She says that you will find most beneficial effects with short pulses of higher-powered light sources, like those used in a doctor’s office, though at-home treatments can still be effective.
LED light therapy is an oft-recommended treatment because it offers loads of skin benefits. “In clinical studies, it has been shown to stimulate collagen production, helping reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” dermatologist Dr. Lauren Penzi tells Vogue. Furthermore, she details that it can improve circulation, enhance the body's detoxification, and calm inflammation. “Over time it can help to soften scars, stretch marks, inflamed skin and assist in wound healing. It can also stimulate hair growth by improving energy production at a cellular level as well as increasing blood supply to the area.”
“Data suggests that LED light therapy does work to promote hair growth,” says Murphy-Rose. “The mechanism is believed to be light induced increase of blood flow supporting nutrient delivery, increased ATP generation to stimulate hair follicle cells, and decreased inflammation, which promotes growth and deters loss.” (ATP stands for adenosine triphosphate, a source of energy that powers the cells.) Shokeen agrees, adding that it's a great non-invasive and safe treatment option for hair loss. “Again, make sure to follow instructions on the device for how long you use the device for,” she instructs.
Willis explains that there is minimal risk when using an LED device on the skin. “With all light therapies, the most important thing is eye protection. When using LED light therapy, the device should be used away from the eyes using a handheld device or the eyes should be covered with protective goggles or patches.” Though the devices are suitable for all skin types, she advises those with melasma to be cautious “because thermal heat can make the condition worse.”
Similarly, MacGregor’s biggest piece of advice is to use the device according to its instructions. “The easiest rule for consumers to use is to only use an FDA or FDA-cleared LED device exactly for your specific skin concern and exactly according to the instructions”—forewarning that using a device more than instructed could worsen skin conditions.
“When using LED light therapy devices at home, it's important to carefully follow the instructions provided with the device,” says Shokeen. “Typically, you would clean and dry your skin, then apply the device to the treatment area for a specific duration as recommended by the manufacturer. It's essential to use the device as directed and to avoid looking directly at light for extended periods of time.”
Beyond those warnings, though, an LED device can be seamlessly introduced to your current regimen. Willis says it “should be used on clean skin before any serums or prescriptions are applied.” Additionally, MacGregor recommends cleansing with a gentle formula, like CeraVe or Aveeno, then continuing your skin-care routine as usual.
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