IPL hair removal: Everything you need to know

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From the treatment time to the results you can realistically expect, the experts explain all q switch nd yag

IPL hair removal is a treatment offered in clinics up and down the country, and now, some at-home IPL devices are advanced enough to compete with the professional options on offer.

If this hair-removal method is something you're considering, read on for the latest expert advice on everything you need to know about it, from the differences between IPL and laser hair removal, to what the treatment really entails and how long results last.

"IPL stands for intense pulsed light and is a type of light treatment that uses strong pulses of light to stimulate or treat various issues within the skin,” explains facialist and laser specialist Debbie Thomas. “Sometimes people think IPL is laser as they can do some similar things, but they are not the same. However, the principle of how they work for hair removal is similar: both direct light at the pigment in the hair, causing a burst of heat that damages or kills the cells that cause that hair to grow."

"The light that comes out of an IPL device is absorbed by the pigment in the hair, causing a buildup of energy which turns to heat (think of a black T-shirt on a sunny day),” says Thomas. “The heat travels down the hair and disables or destroys the cells that make new ones.”

You’ve likely heard varying responses to this question, as the answer really depends on your pain threshold. The sensation is generally compared to that of an elastic-band flick or spatter of hot oil – but the best IPL devices today work so quickly, you’ll barely have time to register the sensation.

Again, the exact time will differ from person to person, depending on various factors. As dermatologist Dr. Anjali Mahto explains, your hair has cycles just like your skin does. “Your hair has a growth phase, a rest phase, and a shedding phase. One of the main reasons why you need to do repeat treatments with IPL (like laser), is because your hairs are not all in the same phase of the cycle at the same time. So to catch all of them, and to get rid of them permanently, you almost have to chase the cycles. This is why at-home IPL treatments are often repeated every four weeks”.

Whether you’re booking into a clinic or investing in an at-home IPL device, it’s crucial to first assess your suitability.

Importantly, not every skin tone is suitable for IPL; as the technology works by targeting the pigment in the hair, there needs to be a notable difference between your skin tone and your hair colour. Most experts advise against using an IPL machine on Black skin, as there is a risk of damage causing discolouration, and those with light blonde and red hair should similarly sit this treatment out.

“The quickest and the best results are likely to be on somebody who has fine, dark hair and relatively light skin,” notes Dr. Mahto. “If you’ve got underlying skin or medical issues, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) or thyroid issues, you may find the treatment takes longer. So there’s a lot of individual factors that one needs to consider.”

It's also useful know that experts recommend avoiding direct sun exposure, as well as self-tanning, during IPL hair removal treatments.

As noted, when used as hair removal methods, both lasers and intense pulsed light (IPL) use light to heat hair follicles and prevent regrowth. But while similar-sounding, the technology used by each really isn’t, with the key difference being the light source used.

Lucy Xu, skin specialist and founder of London Premier Laser & Skin Clinic, explains that typically, IPL technology will require more treatments and may produce less effective hair reduction. “New laser technologies we work with in clinics are more advanced and effective than IPL counterparts with less discomfort (as they are fitted with integrated cooling systems). In addition, it means our machines can treat a wider range of skin and hair types than an IPL device can.”

Ultimately, for many people, hair removal using via laser treatment will mean faster, more longer-lasting results.

If you prefer the convenience – and cost benefits – of removing your hair at home, you have plenty of good options as there’s now a wealth of IPL devices for at-home use on the market, and many can deliver brilliant results. However, they also vary wildly in terms of price, performance and usability, so it pays to do your research beforehand.

When choosing the best IPL device to invest in, the key things to consider are as follows:

1) The lifespan. First and foremost, it’s important to check the number of ‘flashes’ your device will emit. The cheapest models on the market may only last you a few years before requiring replacing, but a good IPL device will deliver decades of regular use.

2) The power. Many IPL devices come with varying levels of intensity, meaning you can treat hair on various parts of your body effectively. The very best, such as Braun’s hero Silk-Expert model and new Skin i·expert model, even come with a smart sensor and auto-adjust to the correct intensity for your skin tone and hair colour on contact.

3) The speed. Considering the speed between each flash may sound superfluous, but a slow IPL device makes for a laborious treatment, meaning you’re less likely to use it regularly.

4) The treatment heads. The best IPL machines will come with various heads to fit your under-arms, legs, bikini areas and even your upper lip.

This small, ergonomic IPL device has long been considered one of the best in class. The specs are impressive in every way: expect up to 125 flashes per minute, meaning you can treat both legs in under five minutes, and a total of 40,000 flashes – enough to treat your legs for 27 years.

The device comes with skin-sensor technology that scans your hair and skin tone, automatically switching onto the most appropriate setting. There's also a precision head for treating smaller areas, such as the upper lip and bikini line.

The newest Braun IPL device is also the brand's fastest – poised to treat the full body in less than 15 minutes (thanks to the flashes up to every 0.5 seconds).

With two intensity modes and four attachment caps for face and body, it links to a mobile app allowing users to track their progress.It's received rave reviews since launch, with people reporting visible hair reduction in a little as three weeks – and this week, it's reduced by 50 per cent.

The smallest device we've tried, the SmoothSkin Bare+ is certainly a practical option (although it isn't cordless). With 100 flashes per minute, it'll treat both legs in around nine minutes, and slows hair regrowth in four weeks. The brand promises 97 per cent less hair with 12 weeks of regular use.

Philips' IPL offering is a bulkier device than many, but the Lumea also offers a wide array of advanced benefits. The machine comes with four different attachments, allowing you to treat every area of your body, from your legs to your face. The in-built skin sensor ensures peace of mind, while the power is ample to last you for 20 years.

The latest version, the 9000, claims to deliver hair-free skin for up to a year after completing a course of 12 treatments – in fact, just three sessions could reduce your hair by 92 per cent. Unlike previous releases, this one can be used cordless, and you only need to sit down with it twice a month.

Clearly the best looking IPL device, but also one of the best: Foreo's Peach delivers decent results. The larger-than-average window and high-speed flash mean it'll treat your legs rapidly but you can also access hard-to-get-to areas with its bendable head. It claims twice as much power than other IPL devices, while the vibrational massage and in-built cooling system tempers any sting. It comes with five intensities as well as a precision setting for your face.

Positioned as suitable for all skin tones, including the darkest complexion, Silk'n's Infinity Fast promises up to 92 per cent hair reduction following a treatment course. Powered by eHPL, a combination of galvanic energy and optical energy, it works by widening your pores to let the light reach hair follicles, without any pain, irritation or damage.

Usage depends on the device chosen – and you should always follow manufacture instructions. But, as an example, our beauty director Bridget March has been trialling the Foreo Peach 2 IPL Hair Removal Device device (which she describes as easy to use and virtually pain-free) and shares the method here.

"You need to use the Foreo Peach 2 once every fortnight for 12 weeks or until you get your required results. It's important to delicately exfoliate the skin on the days before use to prevent any ingrown hairs, and to shave the areas of skin being treated on the day. Right before use, you can apply the brand's accompanying Cooling Prep Gel which is designed to alleviate sensitivity, enhance efficacy and glide (though it isn't a requirement). Once absorbed, adjust the IPL intensity on the device (I always go to the max!) then – wearing sunglasses to protect your eyes – place the device on the skin and press and release the flash button for small areas like the armpits, or press and hold the flash button for larger areas like the legs, working from the bottom up."

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