Professional Tool Reviews for Pros
Mounting your router to a router table gives you several advantages over using this tool freehand. So, whether you’re a professional or a serious DIYer, finding the best router table for your needs is an important process. Indeed, routers come in full-size models that can handle large stock and smaller bench top varieties that you can take with you to the job site. In short, the choices are plentiful. Here are some of the best router tables out there. Bintangore Plywood
Router tables come in different types and price points to suit a variety of needs and budgets. Keeping that in mind, we included affordable bench top units that are compact and lightweight enough to transport from job site to job site along with full-size units designed for the pro workshop. Our selections come from brands that are known for making quality models, including Bosch, a brand well-known for its routers, and Kreg, a company that’s renowned for its woodworking products.
Bosch makes many great router tables, and this one is the cream of the crop. Its compact size and relatively light 30-pound weight make it ideal for smaller workshops or those who need a bench top router they can tote to the job site. Its 18-inch wide by 27-inch long top is one of the largest for a bench top model. You also won’t have to worry about this router table warping as its work surface and fence are made of aluminum.
While the RA1181’s plastic legs aren’t as stable as some of the bigger and heavier full-size models out there, it compensates for that with featherboards that keep the material tight to the fence as you’re feeding it across the router bit. The RA1181 also comes with multiple aluminum metal plates that make it compatible with most router brands, and there are other nice additional features, including a clear bit guard cover for safety, two outlets for powering a dust collection system, and a storage pocket for storing router bits.
This router table’s rock-solid build and ample work space make it a great option for the professional workshop. With a sturdy cast iron top and a sturdy steel base, this is one of the most stable examples out there. There’s also a precision router depth adjuster that allows you to make very accurate cuts and a customizable fence system that’s equipped with various accessories, including featherboards.
While it weighs in at more than 300 pounds, you can still push it around your workshop thanks to a built-in lift system. This router table also helps to keep your workshop clean by enclosing the router in a metal box that keeps sawdust contained, and there’s onboard storage for accessories, bits, and a miter gauge.
This entry-level router table from Skil is a great option for those looking for a starter model for their woodworking projects. With a table that measures 24 inches long by 16 inches wide, it’s larger than other bench-top models. It also uses thick melamine for its top and fence, so you don’t have to worry about it warping. And, since the top is smooth melamine, materials won’t catch as you’re pushing them through the blade.
Also, two featherboards keep projects firmly against the fence as you push them across the bit. Its taller fence can handle wider workpieces and there’s a slot for a miter gauge. A large storage compartment on the side of the table is handy for storing bits, extra plates, and other accessories. Best of all, it costs a fraction of other router tables.
This Bosch bench-top router table tops the list of portable models with its compact design, high-quality build, and large work surface. With its folded legs and manageable weight of 33 pounds, one person can carry it short distances from the truck bed to the jobsite and back again. Yet, its 26- by 16.5-inch work surface makes it capable of handling larger stock than other portable models.
While its foldable legs may not offer the same stability as benches with fixed legs, two large featherboards keep projects tight to the fence. We also like the easy-click mounting system that makes it easier to attach and detach your router.
Stability is key when it comes to a good router table, which is why we like Kreg’s version of this accessory. Much like its full-size model, this one is built like a rock. It features a thick melamine bench top that sits on a steel base with wide-set legs and an adjustable aluminum split fence, so it won’t vibrate or rock while you’re cutting. Despite its solid build, it weighs just 28 pounds, making it one of the easier models to lift and carry.
We also like the adjustability of the two-piece aluminum fence, which lets you make adjustments to the gap based on bit size, while also allowing you to use the router as a jointer. A handy track on the top of the fence holds a guard, featherboards, and other accessories. Other highlights include a large vacuum port for dust control and a miter gauge slot.
The Kreg PRS1045 is designed for the demands of a pro-level workshop. It features a large 25- by 36-inch table that can accommodate large projects. With its thick melamine MDF construction and steel frame, it won’t wobble or vibrate as you work. You can also adjust the height of the table between 31 and 39 inches to suit your preferences. Just keep in mind that this tool requires a permanent spot in the shop as it does not have wheels or a lift.
The thick MDF fence features a fence lock you can use with one hand for quick adjustments and the mounting plate comes with Kreg’s Level-loc reducing rings, so you can change the gap size in the table depending on the size of the router bit.
Most router tables mount the router such that the bit protrudes upward from the table surface. By turning the router horizontally so that the bit is parallel with the work surface, this horizontal router table can execute cuts a standard router table can’t, such as cutting tenons on longer stock, mortising, or making angled cuts without a jig.
The 6000 has several features that make it one of the top horizontal router tables. It has a broad work surface and allows for bit depth adjustments of up to 9 inches. There’s also an easy-to-access crank for quick bit adjustments. You can also make fine height adjustments as the lift moves the bit at a rate of just 1/16 of an inch per revolution. The 3/4-inch thick top provides a sturdy and stable surface on which to work, and there’s a clamping system that makes it easier and safer to machine moldings. These features make the Woodhaven 6000 a great option if you want more versatility and precision out of your router table.
This Grizzly features a micro-adjustable router lift that allows you to set router bit depths in tiny increments. Couple that with its stable cast iron work surface, steel frame, and an aluminum extruded fence and you have a router table that allows you to make very precise router cuts.
This machine also helps keep your workshop clean with an enclosed steel housing for excellent dust collection. Other features include a T-slot channel that holds accessories tight to the table and a clear guard that protects you from the bit while still giving you a good view of the action. If you need a router table for a professional workshop and have the budget for its high price tag, this is the one.
Unlike most bench top models that are supported by legs, Bosch’s RA1171 sits on a cabinet. This gives it a few advantages. The cabinet makes for a sturdy base that prevents movement and vibration during use, and it helps to keep sawdust contained, so it doesn’t end up all over your workshop floor. Two dust ports also help to keep dust under control. And since much of that cabinet space is unoccupied, it makes for a handy place to store bits, a miter gauge, and other accessories.
The RA1171 also features a thick 15.5 by 25-inch melamine work surface with a large aluminum mounting plate, a 4-inch tall aluminum fence that can handle taller materials, and two good-sized featherboards to keep stock secure. The RA117 is also reasonably priced, making it a good choice if you’re looking for a model that won’t break the bank.
This reasonably priced CNC model can engrave in a variety of different materials. In addition to wood, it can cut aluminum, stainless steel, and other metals. It will also engrave on nylon, resin, carbon fiber, plexiglass, and even leather. With a work surface that measures 16.9 inches by 15.4 inches, you can engrave larger materials than other similarly priced CNC routers. It also supports a variety of platforms, including Windows XP, 7, 8, 9, and 10, and Mac OS.
This CNC router comes equipped with everything you need, including a controller box, touchscreen controller, and router bit. Moreover, you can assemble it in less than 30 minutes. If you want a CNC router that’s easy to use but has the power and size to handle a variety of jobs, this is the one.
To help you expand your search, here are some of the best-selling models at leading retailers.
Finding the right type of router table to suit your needs and budget is crucial when shopping for one of these router accessories.
Bench tops are the smaller of the two router table types. Indeed, because they don’t have a built-in cabinet or legs, they’re compact enough to throw in the back of a pickup truck or work van. Just remember that since they lack legs, they require a tailgate, workbench, or some other means of support.
Floor-standing models are much larger and bulkier than bench top models with tables that can measure upwards of 3 feet long and 2 feet wide, which means they can handle larger projects. And since this type of router table is freestanding, you don’t need a workbench to support it. The flip side is that floor-standing units are bulkier and heavier and hence require a permanent spot in your workshop.
The mounting plate is a piece of metal that sits inside the router table and serves as the point of connection for the router and table. Since these plates are responsible for holding the router firmly in place while it’s cutting, they must be compatible with the router.
Many models come with multiple plates to fit the different major brands. The holes in the mounting plate must align with the holes on the router, and the router should sit flush with the plate. There should also be enough clearance between the plate and the router bit to ensure it doesn’t rub against it.
The fence is responsible for keeping the material moving in a straight line as you feed it across the router cutting bit. As such, the fence should be made from a sturdy material, such as cast iron, aluminum or thick MDF, and be securely attached to the table to prevent variations in the cut. Router fences come in split-piece and single-piece options.
A single piece is a continuous fence with a gap for the router bit. A split-piece fence consists of two separate pieces on either side of the bit. While a single-piece router fence makes it easier to keep the fence straight, a split-piece arrangement also has advantages. This type of fence allows you to adjust the size of the gap in the fence to suit the bit, ensuring you get as much support as possible for the material you’re cutting. You can also use a router table with a splint fence as an edge jointer, making it more versatile than a single-piece fence.
A router table significantly expands what you can do with your router. Here are a few common uses.
A router is often used to profile the edges of table tops, cabinetry, drawer fronts, and other furniture items. Unless you’re working with a piece that is too large for the work surface, using a router table is always the best way to edge profile. It makes the process easier and you’ll end up with better results with far fewer variations.
If you own a router table, you don’t need to invest in a jointer. Jointing is easiest with models that have a split-piece fence, which allows you to change the depth of the out-feed side of the fence to create the offset you need for joinery. You can still perform joinery with a single-piece fence, but you’ll need to shim the out-feed side of the fence to create that offset.
A router table gives you a stable, flat work surface to work on, allowing you to make much more precise cuts than you can when you use a router freehand. The table holds it firmly in place while the fence provides a sturdy guide that keeps the material straight as you feed it across the bit. And unlike using a hand-held router, you don’t have to support the weight of the tool or manage its vibration as you cut. It also allows you to make precision cuts on stock that’s too difficult to cut with a hand-held router.
They are also handy for cutting slots in wood. Since they hold the router firmly in place and allow you to make very precise depth settings, they allow you to make very precise slot cuts in wood when combined with a drill or drill press.
You can also use them to cut raised door panels in wood cabinetry when you equip it with a raised panel bit set.
Router tables cut wood, which means they often send sawdust and small wood shavings airborne. There’s also the potential for kickback that can cause the material you’re cutting to be thrown towards your face. With this in mind, always wear safety glasses or goggles when using this type of machine. Given that routers are loud machines, it’s also a good idea to wear ear protection.
There are a few common sense safety rules you should follow whenever using a router table. Always unplug the router before changing a router bit, and make sure the router is tightly mounted to the table before each use. Always secure the stock with one hand, and if possible, featherboards, to prevent kickback.
When using a router table, use featherboards to hold the stock in place. Doing so not only ensures a straighter cut with fewer variations but also helps secure the material to prevent kickbacks. Set the featherboards such that they apply consistent tension on the stock on both sides of the bit. Use push blocks to guide stock through the router bit, so your hands stay safely away from the spinning blade.
One advantage of using a router table is that it’s safer than freehanding with a router. Since freehanding requires you to support the weight of the router and hold it steady while moving the router across the material, it’s inherently more dangerous. This is especially true when routing smaller materials that would be very awkward to cut using a handheld router. While you’ll need to freehand router materials that are too large for a router table, when possible, use a router table.
A router table is a type of workbench to which a router mounts upside down under the table. The router bit protrudes through the hole, making cuts as wood is fed through it. This design makes it easier to make precise cuts than using a router freehand and allows you to cut smaller pieces that can’t be routed with a handheld router.
A router table also allows you to perform other tasks with the router, such as cutting joinery.
You can’t use any router with a router table. You must use a router that is compatible with the specific table. Router tables are not universal and will only fit certain brands. Make sure your router is compatible before purchasing it.
Clean your router table periodically to ensure you get the most out of it. Remove any loose sawdust using a shop vac. Don’t forget to vacuum the router’s housing to remove any dust that might be clogging its vents.
There are several safety precautions you should take whenever using a router table. Always wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Tie back loose hair to prevent it from getting caught in the router bit. When cutting, feed material slowly against the direction of the spinning bit while holding it firmly against the fence to prevent kickback.
Avoid these common pitfalls when using a router. Always make sure you are feeding the wood so that it’s traveling against the direction of the bit to prevent kickback. Don’t cut more deeply than 3/8-inch deep with each pass to achieve a clean, even cut. Finally, don’t move the material too slowly across the router bit or it could burn the wood.
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